wyz2285 wrote:Them I would suggest a detente to compensate the slow open valve.

slow open valve? actually the valve should be a lot faster then most piston air guns, the only problem would be the dead space, but if made well i dont think it would be much of a problem

You don't need the o-rings in front of the bb, you bolt will push the bb through it, if you want it to act as a detente, you will need another one to seal the bolt/barrel section if not air will leak from there(it will any way without a o-ring there, but with a detente you lose more).
As there is ...

if my boss decides to pay me more and i can save up enough spare money to buy a lathe, and find the time, i will definitely give it a go....... so probably never...

anyways it was just an idea

i didnt really think of that, although i think when i came up with this i was more aiming for something that didnt waist any air, aslo i was thinking it may have a quicker valve opening time, but now i think about it it may not be by much if any

This seems similar to the GB semi .

although with ...

hey everyone, dont really do much in the hobby anymore but i still think of ways to much air guns and stuff, had this idea and would love to see it made, but i dont have the time to do it myself

not a very detailed drawing but you should get the idea

what do you think?

Did you use a belt grinder on this?

no i just used an angle grinder and a file, but i think a belt grinder would have made it a lot easier

I don't know. It looks great, the craftsmanship is amazing on the handle too - but somehow it doesn't feel right . I would have gone for the lanyard handle ...

hey, just thought i would post the outcome, could be sharper but its pretty good

these are my two coax aluminium airguns,

http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/8mm-coaxial-t22505.html

http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/cane-gun-t21924.html

both of them use 400psi and they wouldnt even be capably of that accuracy, 150psi just isnt going to cut it, also if you have a tight enough ...

sorry for the double post but i have a picture of the next knife i have started for yous

still got a fair bit to do, blade is 11cm long, .5cm thick, 2.4cm wide and the whole knife is 22cm long

tell me what you think

thanks for all the information guys

i cant really add much, still working on sharpening the blade, aslo the dimensions are, 16cm, 2.75cm wide blad and over all length it 29cm

Edit: also i have started on my next knife and will post some pics as soon as i can

cheers guys

im not sure what that thing at the front is, there are some other smaller ones on there, i will try and sand them of but it will be hard


I'd suggest you try polishing and bluing the blade otherwise it'll rust quickly.


thanks, ill take a look into that

looks like a crack, did ...

ok so i finally heat treated it today, did go as good as i had hoped, my dad was strongly saying that i didn't need to wear gloves, guess what, flames burnt my hands a little and it didn't go in as evenly as i wanted, the blade is a little bent but other then that i think it worked

heres a couple ...

MRR wrote:IMO a lanyard handle would be a good compromise.

it did cross my mind to do that but its the end of the handle that i dont want to see so thats what im trying to cover up

well, for that kind of steel, 830c would be pretty much ideal, since its carbon steel. and same for annealing

thanks, i think the file i made this knife out of probably didn't get to much hotter then that, the furnace had been heated to 1000c but had been turned off and opened a few times, but i ...

OIL, use oil!!! Cause if the nprmalizating process isnt exacly perfect, it will crack during the quench

definitely think i will use the oil then, havent done this much to have it crack on me...

can anyone tell me what the best annealing and heat treating temperatures are?

JSR, i want to make a ...