SpudFiles Wiki - User contributions [en]

Camera flash

2008-11-25T03:47:40Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

For an excellent description on how these disposable camera photo circuits work see [http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/XenonFlasher/XenonFlasher.html].

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==[[Ignition coil]]==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm 5-pin automotive relay], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]]; it will make the relay easily removable in case of a wiring problem or to be used in another project.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.

{{stub}}

===Tube Switched Coil===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually Switched Coil===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex spark gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Short circuit gap==

A camera flash can be used with a short circuit gap, which has movable points that can be brought in contact from outside the chamber. The flash capacitor is connected directly to the gap and creates a spark when it's shorted. This spark gap is more difficult to make, and may have isues with weldong and erosion, but is easy to hook up and requires little electronics knowledge.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Spud cutter

2007-01-13T04:46:15Z

DK:

A '''spud cutter''' or '''muzzle knife''' is used to cut produce to the diameter of the barrel. It can be made as an integral part of the barrel, or kept as a separate utensil.

It is made by beveling the outside of the barrel (or a pipe of the same inside diameter) until it forms a sharp edge. In [[combustion cannon|combustions]], is recommended that you add an inner chamfer to your launcher; this cuts a tighter fitting projectile, which increaes friction and therefore acts a bit like a [[burst disk]], allowing the pressure to build before projectile starts to move.

However, there are deficiencies in the typical PVC 'cutter, mainly that it is a relatively soft material and therefore can neither be sharpened very well nor hold an edge. Many have attempted to counter this by:
* Serrating their cutter. (Examples: [http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/loc_04.jpg])
* Making them out of steel.
[[Image:Aluminum Cutter.jpg|left|thumb|250ps|An Aluminum Spud Cutter]][[Image:Slug cutter.jpg|right|thumb|250ps|A PVC Slug Cutter]][[Category:Accessories]]

File:Aluminum Cutter.jpg

2007-01-13T04:39:05Z

DK: An Aluminum Spud Cutter

An Aluminum Spud Cutter

File:Slug cutter.jpg

2007-01-13T04:31:47Z

DK: A PVC Slug Cutter

A PVC Slug Cutter

MAPP

2007-01-13T04:23:58Z

DK:

[[Image:mapp.jpg|frame|Typical MAPP Tank]]
'''MAPP''', a stabilized mixture of Methylacetylene and Propadiene (and trademark of BOC Gasses) yeilds about 25% more muzzle energy (about 11% more velocity) than [[Propane]]. 
Available in the plumbing departments of home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowes.

Your [[fuel meter]] would be set up using the same torch head you may have modified for propane, although you'll have to meter in 4.6% by volume instead of the 4.03% of propane. 
Keep tank upright to prevent liquid fuel from contacting the torch head. Room temperature tank pressure is 94 psi.

MAPP gas has a noxious rotten egg odor to inform you of the presence of leaks, but you should still use liquid leak detector on all joints.

In Australia it is known as RazorGas and is a trademark of ELGAS.

[[Category:Fuels]]

Combustion cannon

2006-07-22T06:57:57Z

DK:

[[image:Basic_combustion.JPG|right|thumb|350px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel System
* Combustion [[Chamber]]
* [[Ignition source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

File:Basic combustion.JPG

2006-07-22T06:56:25Z

DK: This is a basic combustion cannon built by Joel Surprise of Spudtech.com

This is a basic combustion cannon built by Joel Surprise of Spudtech.com

What is a spudgun?

2006-07-22T06:41:37Z

DK:

'''Spud guns''', '''potato cannons''', '''produce accelerators''', or '''weapons of mashed destruction''' are all recreational launching devices usually made of plumbing pipe. There are two common means to launch projectiles from a spudgun. The [[pneumatic launcher|first]] uses the energy stored in a compressed gas and the [[combustion launcher|second]], more popular method, uses the energy released by combusting fuel vapors to heat the air and cause it to expand. There is a quite rare mix of the two, a [[hybrid launcher|"hybrid"]], that combusts a pressurized fuel-air mixture. The object of these varieties is to propel projectiles in the direction of a designated (safe) target for fun. Common [[catogory:projectile|projectile]]s include: [[mandarin orange|mandarins]], [[potato]]es, [[tennis ball]]s, [[golf ball]]s,bb's (if you have a small enough barrel), in fact pretty much any spare vegetable you can ram down the tube. This makes them a particularly popular home-made class of projectile launchers because of their low cost to build: a simple static-guard powered gun costs no more than $20 in PVC and glue, less if parts can be scrounged.

Please see the article on [[safety]].

Camera flash

2006-06-20T05:53:04Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==[[Ignition coil]]==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm 5-pin automotive relay], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.

{{stub}}

===Tube Switched Coil===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually Switched Coil===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Camera flash

2006-06-20T05:52:38Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==[[Ignition coil]]==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm 5-pin automotive relay], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

{{stub}}

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube Switched Coil===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually Switched Coil===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Sleeving

2006-06-20T05:51:55Z

DK: /* modified insert */

==Reasons==
Sleeving is a method of reinforcing pipe, typically thinwall [[PVC pipe]], by placing it inside a larger diameter pipe. For sleeving to be efficient, the outer diameter of the inner pipe needs to closely match the inner diameter of the outer pipe.

Another reason for sleeving barrels is to create more appropriate diameters for specific projectiles. For instance, if the barrel inside diameter is 2.00" and you have a slightly smaller projectile, another PVC barrel could be inserted inside the 2.00" diameter barrel. The resulting smaller diameter barrel would be an appropriate size for a golf-ball or other unusual projectile.

==Methods==
===Direct insertion===
Sometimes, there is a pipe diameter that matches the pipe you want to sleeve close enough to directly insert it. For instance, 1.5" nominal fits very well in 2" sch 80. Often it it glued, normally with a relatively slow-curing glue. However, the force required to cause the pipe to move sometimes makes this overkill.

===modified insert===
This is used in the situation that the pipe you want to insert is too big to do so.
Simply, a lengthwise section of the pipe is removed, allowing the diameter of the insert to be reduced. With much effort, it is then possible to shove this into the outer pipe; the effort required to do so is great that gluing it is unneeded.

{{stub}}

Ignition coil

2006-06-20T05:47:13Z

DK:

An '''ignition coil''' is the ignition source used in most gas engines, and can be adapted for use as a spudgun ignition. Almost any coil will work as long as it's in good condition. Ignition coils will give powerful sparks, which means most circuits will also require a lot of power (the camera flash circuit is an exception).

===Driving circuits===

An ignition coil needs a pulsed current through its primary winding to generate the high voltage, so it cannot simply be connected to a car battery. These are the most common ways to drive an ignition coil:

====Buzzer relay====

A relay is connected so that when it activates, it will cut its own current. This will cause it to oscillate, and the resulting pulsed current can be fed to the ignition coil.

There are several ways to set up this circuit depending on the configuration of the relay. The most reliable and powerful design uses a relay with two normally closed contacts, where one is connected in series with the relay solenoid to make it oscillate, and the other contact is connected in series with the ignition coil. The contact that closes first upon return should be connected to the ignition coil, so the contacts should be swapped during testing to see which configuration gives the most consistent spark.

====Electronic oscillator circuit====

An oscillator circuit, typically made up of a [[555 timer]] circuit and switching transistor, is used to interrupt the current through the coil with a frequency of 5-20 kHz.

====Camera flash====

The voltage from the storage capacitor of a camera flash is dumped through the ignition coil. See the [[camera flash]] article for circuit details.

====Manual switch====

If the current through the ignition coil is switched on and off manually, the coil will produce a spark every time the current is shut off. A crude way to create many sparks in rapid succession consists of using the surface of a file, when one wire is connected to the file and the other raked over its surface, the current will be interrupted many times in rapid succession.

====Mains dimmer====

An ignition coil can be driven by mains power, by connecting it in series with a light dimmer and a motor start capacitor. The dimmer should be set at about 50% for maximum voltage. The dimmer will chop the mains power and discharge the capacitor through the coil. This circuit is dangerous since it carries mains voltage on all parts, and should NOT be used for spudgun ignition.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Camera flash

2006-06-20T05:46:42Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==[[Ignition coil]]==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm 5-pin automotive relay], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube Switched Coil===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually Switched Coil===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Combustion cannon

2006-06-20T05:44:32Z

DK:

[[image:Basic combustion cannon.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel System
* Combustion [[Chamber]]
* [[Ignition source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

Combustion Chamber

2006-06-20T05:43:19Z

DK: Combustion Chamber moved to Chamber

#redirect [[Chamber]]

Chamber

2006-06-20T05:43:19Z

DK: Combustion Chamber moved to Chamber

The '''chamber''' or '''reservoir''' is the power source of a spudgun. It is, along with the [[barrel]], the only component found in all launchers. In [[combustion cannon]]s, the chamber contains the flammable fuel/air mixture, and in [[pneumatic cannon]]s it contains the compressed gas. The chamber is connected to the barrel either directly or through a valve, to propel the projectile when the energy is released. The chamber is often the part of the launcher that is subjected to the highest stress, and it's important that it is well [[Cannon construction|constructed]]. It is also the part where the most accessories are connected, especially combustion launchers; they can have a multiple holes to accommodate [[spark gap]]s, [[chamber fan]]s, [[fuel meter]]s and for [[venting]].

{{stub}}
[[Category:Components]]

Combustion cannon

2006-06-20T05:42:41Z

DK:

[[image:Basic combustion cannon.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel System
* [[Combustion chamber]]
* [[Ignition source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

Ignition Source

2006-06-20T05:42:15Z

DK: Ignition Source moved to Ignition source

#redirect [[Ignition source]]

Ignition source

2006-06-20T05:42:15Z

DK: Ignition Source moved to Ignition source

The '''ignition source''' is used to ignite the flammable gasses in the chamber of [[combustion cannon|combustion]] and [[hybrid cannon]]s. The most common ignition sources include:
*[[Lantern sparker]]s
*Piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]s
*[[Stun gun]]s
*[[Camera flash]]-based ignitions
*[[Flyback circuit|Flyback ignition]]s
*Automotive [[ignition coil]]s

For a full overview, see [[:Category:Ignition sources]]

All of these except the lantern sparker produce an electric spark, and need to be connected to some form of [[spark gap]] or [[spark strip]].

[[Category:Components]]

Combustion cannon

2006-06-20T05:40:55Z

DK:

[[image:Basic combustion cannon.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel System
* [[Combustion Chamber]]
* [[Ignition Source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

Ignition source

2006-06-20T05:40:37Z

DK: Ignition source moved to Ignition Source

Combustion cannon

2006-06-20T05:39:48Z

DK:

[[image:Basic combustion cannon.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel System
* [[Combustion Chamber]]
* [[Ignition source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

Combustion cannon

2006-06-20T05:39:12Z

DK:

[[image:Basic combustion cannon.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel System
* [[Combustion Chamber]]
* [[Ignition Source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

Chamber

2006-06-20T05:38:46Z

DK: Chamber moved to Combustion Chamber

Combustion cannon

2006-06-20T05:38:08Z

DK:

[[image:Basic combustion cannon.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Basic combustion cannon]]
A '''combustion cannon''' is a cannon powered by the combustion of flammable fuel-air mixtures. A basic combustion cannon is the simplest one to build, and is therefore often the choice for first time builders.

Combustion powered spudguns have four basic elements:

* Fuel system
* [[Combustion chamber]]
* [[Ignition source]]
* [[Barrel]]

In order to fire, the operator loads a projectile (usually a potato) into the barrel, adds [[fuel]] to the combustion chamber (for example [[aerosol]]s or [[propane]]), and triggers the [[ignition source]] (e.g. a piezoelectric [[BBQ ignitor]]). The fuel should then ignite, create hot expanding gases, and force the projectile out of the barrel. Distances vary greatly depending on the type of fuel used and the [[stoichiometry]] of the fuel/air mixture, the size and [[chamber to barrel ratio]] (C:B ratio) of the launcher; 100 metres is a common distance.

Improvements on the basic combustion launcher include optimized C:B ratios, [[fuel meter|metered propane]] injection, [[chamber fan]]s, multiple [[spark gap]]s ([[spark strip]]s), and high voltage ignition sources ([[flyback circuit]]s, [[stun gun]]s, [[camera flash]]es, etc). Combustion launchers are mechanically simple, but are less powerful in typical situations* compared to a pneumatic launcher of the same size. Potato guns are often painted to increase their aesthetic value and to cover unsightly primer stains. Krylon Fusion, a type of paint specifically made for plastics, is the most common type of spray paint used on potato cannons.

<nowiki>*) </nowiki>the mass of the projectile is high enough that the faster cannon is not "solely" decided by the speed sound in the gas and the flow of the valve, and low enough that these things still matter. This will include almost any projectile you'll ever shoot.

Camera flash

2006-06-20T03:37:48Z

DK: /* Circuits */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==Ignition coil==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm 5-pin automotive relay], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube Switched Coil===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually Switched Coil===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Camera flash

2006-06-20T03:36:24Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==Ignition coil==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm 5-pin automotive relay], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube switched===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually switched===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

File:Kodak max.jpg

2006-06-20T03:34:52Z

DK:

File:Funsaver.jpg

2006-06-20T03:33:22Z

DK:

File:Relay Socket.jpg

2006-06-20T03:30:50Z

DK:

5-pin automotive relay

2006-06-20T03:29:33Z

DK:

<h3>The Automotive Relay</h3>

Camera flash

2006-06-20T03:27:32Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==Ignition coil==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The relay used in the diagrams is a standard [[5-pin automotive relay]], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube switched===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually switched===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button

2006-06-20T03:26:57Z

DK:

<h3>Replacing the Charging Button</h3>
 
 [[Image:Camera Flash - Alternate Charge Switch.JPG]]

File:Camera Flash - Alternate Charge Switch.JPG

2006-06-20T03:26:20Z

DK:

Camera flash

2006-06-20T03:25:57Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==Ignition coil==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The Relay used in the diagrams is a standard [[5-pin automotive relay]], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube switched===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually switched===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Step 8 - Replacing the Charging Button

2006-06-20T03:25:35Z

DK: Step 8 - Replacing the Charging Button moved to Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button: oops

#redirect [[Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button

2006-06-20T03:25:35Z

DK: Step 8 - Replacing the Charging Button moved to Step 9 - Replacing the Charging Button

<h3>Replacing the Charging Button</h3>

Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch

2006-06-20T03:24:43Z

DK:

<h3>Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch</h3>
 
 [[Image:Camera Flash - Battery Holder and Kill Switch 2.JPG]]

File:Camera Flash - Battery Holder and Kill Switch 2.JPG

2006-06-20T03:24:13Z

DK:

Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch

2006-06-20T03:23:59Z

DK:

<h3>Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch</h3>

Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch

2006-06-20T03:23:40Z

DK:

<h3>Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch</h3>

Camera flash

2006-06-20T03:23:04Z

DK: /* Ignition coil */

[[image:Camera flash.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Camera flash circuit]]
A '''camera flash''' can be used for spudgun [[ignition]] in several ways, either by itself or by feeding the high voltage from the flash capacitor through a step-up transformer (commonly an [[ignition coil]], [[flyback circuit|flyback transformer]] or a mains transformer in reverse).

The main advantage of camera flash-based ignitions is that it can be built using cheap, readily available components. The spark is more powerful than that of a piezoelectric ignitor. A camera flash is usually powered by one or two AAA or AA cells. Disadvantages include several seconds of recharge time before the ignition can be triggered again, and significant shock hazard from the storage capacitor if built improperly. Special care should be taken when used in metal launchers, as both sides of the storage capacitor can have significant voltages between them and other parts of the circuit, such as the battery poles and the trigger switch.

The camera flash is most easily obtained from a disposable camera, many places that develop films from these will give the discarded camera shell away for free if asked. The flash capacitor can store charge for a long time, and should be discharged before handling the circuit.

=Circuits=

There are several ways to connect a camera flash to a spark gap, which all have their own advantages and drawbacks. These are the most common circuits.

==Ignition coil==

An ignition coil (or other step-up transformer, such as a flyback or a mains transformer connected in reverse) will provide a high voltage spark when the flash capacitor is discharged through it. Most Ignition coils has a 100:1 winding ratio, meaning that for every 1 volt that is put into the coil, 100 volts come back out.

In order to modify a camera flash circuit for use with an ignition coil, follow these 6 steps:

 [[Step 1 - Removing the Flash Bulb]]

 [[Step 2 - Drilling the Holes for the Ignition Coil Wires]]

 [[Step 3 - Before Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 4 - Adding the Relay]]

 [[Step 5 - Adding the Ignition Coil and Spark Strip/Spark Gap]]

 [[Step 6 - Providing Power to the Relay]]

 The flimsy battery holder can also be replaced with a plastic one, which is easily attained at any electronics store. Also, you can add a "kill switch" in [[series]] after the battery holder to cut off the power when the circuit is not in use. Be aware that the circuit is not "powered down" when the kill switch is in the off position. The circuit will not be able to charge, but the capacitor will still hold the electricity for a long time. The cannon will need to be "dry fired" after the kill switch is turned off. Be sure to point the cannon away from everyone when doing this.

 [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

 [[Step 8 - Adding a Battery Holder and Kill Switch]]

 On a final note, the flash charging button on the front of the camera circuit board can also be replaced with an external one to add a finishing touch and an extra degree of safety. This step may be the hardest of all, as the margin for error when drilling the holes may be small. However, in the larger disposable flash cameras such as the [[Kodak Funsaver]] or [[Kodak Max]] cameras, the circuit board is larger and this is not an issue.

 [[Step 8 - Replacing the Charging Button]]

 The Relay used in the diagrams is a standard [[5-pin automotive relay]], which can be purchased at any auto parts or electronics store. It is advisable that you also use a [[relay socket]], since it make the relay easily removable.

If a mains transformer connected in reverse is used, the spark gap will be electrically insulated from the rest of the curcuit, an advantage when used in metal cannons.

The output transformer from a stun gun can also be used, which can be useful if the charging circuit in the stun gun has died. These circuits are in fact quite similar to that of a stun gun.
===Tube switched===

The ignition that requires the least modification of the camera consists of cutting one of the main leads to the flash tube, and connecting the ignition coil in between. Triggering the flash will produce a spark from the output of the transformer. The advantage to using the flash tube itself to switch the main discharge, is that almost any small switch can be used to trigger the circuit. If the trigger switch is replaced by a thyristor (SCR), the ignition can be triggered by an electronic circuit. The flash circuit itself is mostly intact and not driven out of spec, which means this circuit is quite reliable.

===Manually switched===

The flash tube can also be replaced by a heavy duty switch for triggering, though if the switch is too weak it may become welded shut. This switch will also be carrying the full voltage of the capacitor, and must be properly insulated to prevent electric shock. If the trigger switch is held down for a long time the charging circuit in the flash may break since its output is shorted for the duration.

==Triggered spark gap==

Another ignition method that does not require an external step-up transformer, consists of removing the flash tube, and taking out the trigger lead as well as the two main leads. These are then connected to three electrodes, which are placed together to form a spark gap of a millimeter or less. Triggering the flash will ionize the air in the gap and discharge the main capacitor. This produces a more intense spark than the first method, but it requires a more complex park gap. The electrodes can also erode over time, requiring readjustment.

==Trigger transformer spark==

The trigger transformer for the flash tube produces a few kV on its own, and can be connected to a spark gap. The advantage to this method is that the main capacitor is not dumped, so recharge time is eliminated and it uses less battery power. The spark is very weak however, and this method is generally not recommended.

==Others==

A camera flash can also be used to trigger [[sprinkler valve]] solenoids built for mains voltage, however the opening time will be brief since the flash capacitor is drained quickly.
[[Category:Ignition sources]]

Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

2006-06-20T03:21:56Z

DK:

<h3>Removing the Battery Contacts</h3>
 
 [[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]]

Step 7 - Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch

2006-06-20T03:21:18Z

DK: Step 7 - Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch moved to Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts: renaming

#redirect [[Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts]]

Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

2006-06-20T03:21:18Z

DK: Step 7 - Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch moved to Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

<h3>Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch</h3>
 
 [[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]]

Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

2006-06-20T03:14:03Z

DK:

<h3>Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch</h3>
 
 [[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]]

Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

2006-06-20T03:12:41Z

DK:

<h3>Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch</h3>[[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]] 
 [[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]]

Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

2006-06-20T03:11:14Z

DK:

<h3>Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch</h3>[[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]]

Step 7 - Removing the Battery Contacts

2006-06-20T03:10:51Z

DK:

<h3>Replacing the Battery Holder and Adding a Kill Switch</h3> 
 [[Image:Camera_Flash_-_Battery_Holder_and_Kill_Switch.JPG]]

File:Camera Flash - Battery Holder and Kill Switch.JPG

2006-06-20T03:10:06Z

DK: