Muzzle loading - Revision history

Jimmy101: Rearraganged and the english was cleaned up.

2008-06-04T17:47:47Z

Rearraganged and the english was cleaned up.

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:47, 4 June 2008
Line 2:		Line 2:

	To muzzle-load a spudgun:		To muzzle-load a spudgun:
	* Get a (straight) stick~~, and preferably~~ mark it ~~where~~ it is ~~flush with~~ the ~~muzzle when~~ the ~~pushing end of~~ it ~~is at~~ the ~~desired projectile depth~~.		* Get a (straight) stick or a length of PVC pipe that fits in the barrel to use as a ramrod. It is helpful to make a mark on the ramrod indicating how far it needs to be inserted into the barrel to push the projectile to the proper depth. This will help to consistently position the spud. The mark will also make it less likely that the projectile is pushed too far and ends up in the guns chamber (for combustion guns) or so close to the valve that it interferes with the valves operation (in pneumatics).
	* Cut your projectile to size, by ~~either~~ pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or ~~your~~ separate spud cutter. ~~Paring knifes are~~ not recommended.		* Cut your projectile to size, either by pushing your projectile over your [[muzzle knife]] or a separate spud cutter. Cutting the ammo to size using a knife is not recommended since the resulting ammo will fit the barrel poorly.
	* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to ~~scratch it; this is done~~ to ~~allow~~ the air ~~to leak past~~.		* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile to go down the barrel you may need to provide some sort of vent to release the air trapped between the ammo and chamber.

	~~Some design their launchers~~ to be ~~easier~~ to ~~muzzle load by making~~ a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of ~~their~~ barrel ~~for~~ air to escape. ~~This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight [[ammo]] from being rammed down there. Some, however~~, ~~prefer to install~~ a small [[valve]] ~~of sorts~~. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent ~~hole~~ thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.		There are several methods to vent the trapped air.
			* A groove can be cut in the ammo to allow the trapped air to escape. This is probably not the best solutions since, in general, you want an airtight fit between the ammo and barrel.
			* If you are loading a standard [[Combustion cannon\|combustion gun]], you can simply remove cleanout plug to prevent pressurization of the [[chamber]].
			* A small (~1/16") vent hole can be drilled at the base of the barrel to allow the air to escape.
			* Instead of a hole, a small [[valve]] can be installed as the vent. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent during firing, thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.
			* For [[Pneumatic cannon\|pneumatic launchers]], it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve, or to simply open the gun's pressurization fitting to allow the air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.

	If you are ~~loading a standard~~ [[~~Combustion cannon~~\|~~combustion gun~~]], ~~the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the~~ [[~~chamber~~]] ~~and to avoid~~ the ~~need~~ of ~~any type of vent. For [[Pneumatic cannon\|pneumatic launchers]]~~, it is ~~sometimes possible to open a bleed port on~~ the ~~valve to allow~~ the ~~excess~~ air to ~~escape~~ as the ~~projectile~~ is ~~rammed home~~.		It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce ([[potato\|spuds]], zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or [[spud cutter]]. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the internal diamter of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.

	~~It is recommended that~~ you ~~sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce ([[potato\|spuds]], zucchinis, etc.). This is called~~ a ~~"muzzle knife" or [[spud~~ cutter~~]]. If just~~ the ~~outside edge~~ of ~~the muzzle is sharpened~~, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can ~~be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle~~ as ~~well,~~ a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.		If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your spud cutter as a separate instrument.

	~~If you do~~ not ~~feel safe having~~ a ~~cutter on~~ the ~~end~~ of ~~your~~ gun~~, you can instead keep your spud cutter as a separate instrument~~.		It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. For combustion guns this is generally not a problem since the ammo is an integral part of the chamber. It would be very difficult to properly fuel a combustion gun without having the ammo already in the barrel.

	~~It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire.~~ A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.		A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized. Some pneumatic gun designs will vent some air out of the barrel when the chamber is pressurized. This may make it impossible to muzzle load before pressurization of the chamber. In this type of gun extreme care should be taken while muzzle loading.

Benstern: added and fixed links

2008-06-04T14:27:54Z

added and fixed links

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:27, 4 June 2008
Line 6:		Line 6:
	* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.		* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

	Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent hole thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.		Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight [[ammo]] from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small [[valve]] of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent hole thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.

	If you are loading a standard combustion gun, the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the chamber and to avoid the need of any type of vent. For pneumatic launchers, it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve to allow the excess air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.		If you are loading a standard [[Combustion cannon\|combustion gun]], the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the [[chamber]] and to avoid the need of any type of vent. For [[Pneumatic cannon\|pneumatic launchers]], it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve to allow the excess air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.

	It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce (spuds, zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or [[spud cutter]]. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.		It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce ([[potato\|spuds]], zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or [[spud cutter]]. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.

	If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.		If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your spud cutter as a separate instrument.

	It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.		It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.

Jimmy101: Expanded the section on venting and muzzle knifes

2007-12-14T17:41:13Z

Expanded the section on venting and muzzle knifes

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:41, 14 December 2007
Line 4:		Line 4:
	* Get a (straight) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.		* Get a (straight) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.
	* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.		* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.
	* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.		* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

	Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~~like~~ 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out ~~and~~ decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.		Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent hole thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.

	It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are ~~planing upon shooting~~ produce. ~~Such~~ a ~~modification~~ is ~~called~~ a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.		If you are loading a standard combustion gun, the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the chamber and to avoid the need of any type of vent. For pneumatic launchers, it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve to allow the excess air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.

			It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce (spuds, zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or [[spud cutter]]. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.

			If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.

			It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.

Benstern: spelling

2007-06-03T05:43:23Z

spelling

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:43, 3 June 2007
Line 6:		Line 6:
	* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.		* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

	Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion ~~gasses~~ from shooting out and decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.		Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out and decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.

	It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing upon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.		It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing upon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.

SpudMonster at 22:04, 3 April 2006

2006-04-03T22:04:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:04, 3 April 2006
Line 2:		Line 2:

	To muzzle-load a spudgun:		To muzzle-load a spudgun:
	* Get a (~~strait~~) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.		* Get a (straight) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.
	* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.		* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.
	* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.		* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

70.31.208.207: spelling

2006-03-04T22:25:31Z

spelling

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:25, 4 March 2006
Line 3:		Line 3:
	To muzzle-load a spudgun:		To muzzle-load a spudgun:
	* Get a (strait) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.		* Get a (strait) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.
	* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your ~~seperate~~ spud cutter. Paring knifes are not ~~recomended~~.		* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.
	* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you ~~cannont~~ get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.		* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

	Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to ~~excape~~. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing ~~preformance~~ and/or burning the operator.		Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.

	It is ~~recomended~~ that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing ~~apon~~ shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a ~~seperate instrement~~.		It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing upon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.

Boilingleadbath: more info, typo

2005-10-21T21:51:28Z

more info, typo

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:51, 21 October 2005
Line 1:		Line 1:
	The standard way of doing things, because it is the cheapest and easiest to make; in fact, it is not possible to make a launcher that cannot be ~~breach~~-loaded.		The standard way of doing things, because it is the cheapest and easiest to make; in fact, it is not possible to make a launcher that cannot be muzzle-loaded.

	~~Some design their launchers to be easier to~~ muzzle load ~~by making small~~ (~~like 1/16"~~) ~~vent holes~~ at the ~~base of their barrel for air~~ to ~~excape~~. ~~This air would otherwise prevent~~ the ~~nearly airtight ammo from being rammed~~ down ~~there. Some~~, ~~however, prefer~~ to ~~install a small valve of sorts. This prevents~~ air ~~or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing preformance and/or burning the operator~~.		To muzzle-load a spudgun:
			* Get a (strait) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.
			* Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your seperate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recomended.
			* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannont get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

	It is recomended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing ~~appon~~ shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a seperate instrement.		Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to excape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing preformance and/or burning the operator.

			It is recomended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing apon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a seperate instrement.

Boilingleadbath at 21:30, 21 October 2005

2005-10-21T21:30:01Z

New page

The standard way of doing things, because it is the cheapest and easiest to make; in fact, it is not possible to make a launcher that cannot be breach-loaded.

Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making small (like 1/16") vent holes at the base of their barrel for air to excape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing preformance and/or burning the operator.

It is recomended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing appon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a seperate instrement.