mark.f wrote:High speed still photography can be done as well on the (relatively) cheap to detect tumbling and other things. Maybe somebody a little more experienced here can pipe up but I think multiple exposures can be done with more than one flash unit...
Correct. Some really expensive flashes also have a strobe function. It is VERY weak. The main issues with still photography are:
1. Ambient lighting
shoot in darkness, leave the shutter open for about 1 second
Manual exposure for ambient lighting, triggger camera shutter before
flash
Even DSLRs have at least a few tens of ms of shutter lag. That is
the minimum delay you need after you detect the projectile, so at
800 fps and 20 ms shutter lag (shorter than typical), you detect a
minimum of 16 feet in advance of where your camera is pointed.
You then wait a minimum of 20ms, then trip the flash. CHDK
enabled cameras using the falling voltage trigger should have a
much shorter shutter lag
Kerr cell shutter in front of lens. Extremely fast, faster than probably
all flashes. You will need a way to drive it with fairly high voltage. You
can pulse it for multiple exposures, even from the same flash.
2. Flash Duration
Most commercial flash guns bottom out at 1/40,000 of a second. In that time, an 800fps projectile will travel ~0.25". You really need something faster, probably
homemade
If you're exposing for ambient lighting with a long shutter speed, you need a REALLY bright flash. With a 1s shutter speed and a 1/40,000 flash duration, you're looking at 40,000x brighter than ambient. If that's direct sunlight, I'm so sorry...
3. Triggering
Sound is easy, but variation in muzzle velocity will throw your
composition
Laser is great, but it will show up in your picture, unless you turn it off
before you open the camera shutter (or if its out of frame). The main
reason to use a laser is to ensure consistency
Contact is like laser, but easier to make initially and more tedious to
maintain.