I want to make a slider valve for and piston valve exhaust. I liked the design of clides semi auto paintball gun, the main part is the slider valve: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=160& . I don't need a gas through slider valve, I only need it to exhaust. I have a design shown below that is made out of a few various bits that fit together and should keep pressure.
These valves have good characteristics, like they are compact and open and close fast.
clides semi auto has a constant air supply with a compressor, does his slider valve completely seal? I don't have machening equipment but I still should be able to get one working.
So has anyone got any ideas on the construction and design of this valve? Brian?
Metal slider valve design and construction, help.
Nice design indeed. Only one problem I think, I guess the holes and the O-rings won't go together. I think the holes will block the slide due to the O-rings which will be forced in by their own tention. (if you know what I mean ...) Maybe cuts in the lenght of the pipe will help solve that problem. I like that concept a lot.
The part between the holes and the endcap could be filled up, to reduce the pilot volume.
Maybe I make one of those some day.
But.. Instead of the combination between copper and PVC, I will only use PVC
Look at my pic :
1= 32 mm PVC
2= 40 mm PVC
3= 40 to 32 mm PVC reducer ring
4= O-ring
5= long cuts instead of holes
6= 32 mm endcap
This is easier to make, and I guess it will work bether, cause of the cuts instead of the holes. The hard thing will begetting the O-rings in place, and cut out the reducer rings so the O-ring fit in them.
The part between the holes and the endcap could be filled up, to reduce the pilot volume.
Maybe I make one of those some day.
But.. Instead of the combination between copper and PVC, I will only use PVC
Look at my pic :
1= 32 mm PVC
2= 40 mm PVC
3= 40 to 32 mm PVC reducer ring
4= O-ring
5= long cuts instead of holes
6= 32 mm endcap
This is easier to make, and I guess it will work bether, cause of the cuts instead of the holes. The hard thing will begetting the O-rings in place, and cut out the reducer rings so the O-ring fit in them.
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- schmanman
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Is it for the exhaust on your shotgun? the design looks like it would work just fine. pos, I don't get what you are saying. (Nice diagram, looks like that design would work too.)
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- Brian the brain
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I have made a similar valve.I used a copper T, with reducers on both ends.I put two short pieces of pipe in the reducers, sticking into the tee a bit.I placed rubber hose over the ends of the pipe ( on the inside of the tee) and slid a 12 mm pipe with a hole in it through the two 15's.
It sealed very well thanks to the hose, but it was kinda difficult to open it fast.
It sealed very well thanks to the hose, but it was kinda difficult to open it fast.
Gun Freak wrote:
Oh my friggin god stop being so awesome, that thing is pure kick ass. Most innovative and creative pneumatic that the files have ever come by!
Can't ask for a better compliment!!
Oh my friggin god stop being so awesome, that thing is pure kick ass. Most innovative and creative pneumatic that the files have ever come by!
Can't ask for a better compliment!!
I did realize this problem as the o rings will be forced out of place and into the holes somewhat and be unable to get back onto position. I could cut slits into the pipe with the thin cutting disk on my angle grinder. I also think I will make a larger on out of pvc for now, it will be better for tinkering with. I get the same size pipe you have POS. In your diagram it looks like you have designed o ring groves that will have to be cut with a lathe. You need 40mm links to go over the 40mm pvc befor you can put the reducers in.POS wrote: Only one problem I think, I guess the holes and the O-rings won't go together. I think the holes will block the slide due to the O-rings which will be forced in by their own tention. (if you know what I mean ...) Maybe cuts in the lenght of the pipe will help solve that problem.
I propose you cut the reducer in half so you can put and o ring between the two peices. I think you will also need to wear down the inside diameter of the reducers a bit with sand paper.
I am a little doughtfull if the valve will seal perfectly although I guess you could make it do so. Brian, could you please make a simple diagram?
What size copper did you use? I tested and oring on copper pipe to see if it slid alright, I added grease and it worked with no effort.
Forever dreaming...
- killagorrila99
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- Location: Australia.
Looks fine, It should work great.
"I'm sorry, Mr.Bush cant come to the phone right now, He's playing cleudo with Mr. Cheney And he has him in the Cupboard with a broom stick" -White house receptionist.
Demon, i didn't actualy made this valve (yet) I just tried to design one, taking out the possible problems in the first design. PVC is easier to handle then copper. So I would make it out of pvc. And of caurse, it will need links, unless you use pipe with inner diameter of 40 mm. It exists. I found it on a Dutch site. Store isn't far away from me (92 km)
Links will work fine.
I am aware you didn't make this valve but I must have posted in a way which made you think differently.
What size o-rings do you suppose I should get? If I get tight ones, smaller than the outside diameter of 32mm I might run the risk of them forcing themselves into the slits. If I get large ones or the same size the valve might not seal. Should they be thick or thin?
They will slide with no problem because I will use grease.
I am aware you didn't make this valve but I must have posted in a way which made you think differently.
What size o-rings do you suppose I should get? If I get tight ones, smaller than the outside diameter of 32mm I might run the risk of them forcing themselves into the slits. If I get large ones or the same size the valve might not seal. Should they be thick or thin?
They will slide with no problem because I will use grease.
Forever dreaming...