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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:18 pm
by sandman
actually if you are going to use a pump i would put a ball valve behind the sprinkler, so that u ca get enough pressure in the chamber to seat the valve, otherwise the sprinkler will never close, unless you have a small chamber

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:24 pm
by neeewwww
So... Barrel -> Sprinkler -> ball valve -> chamber -> schrader valve
Close Ball valve, fill the chamber, open ball valve... Fire.

Oh... thanks a lot...

Back to the designs... An materials list.

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:28 pm
by sandman
i think this would give you the best results, but this is just how i would address that problem, others may have better ways

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:26 pm
by MalcomFrost
Just built my first pneumatic cannon, but my sprinkler valve honks. Actually it's really loud, like an air horn. I'm using a RainBird valve with 3/4" fittings, I kept the solenoid on which I activate using a couple of 9V batteries and a momentary switch/button. I've heard you can mod those valves to fix this problem, but I'd rather not use a blower, since I've put some effort into the electric trigger system. Any ideas?

-EDIT-

Nevermind, looks like I'll just have to mod the valve. Doesn't seem to be any way around it.

Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 7:17 am
by DinerKid
well i have a question i modded a watermaster and the way my sisign works i have a steady stream of pressurized air (55 psi) into a fairly small tank (15 inches of 2 inch sch 40) but my valve honks. it is inportant that i not add a ball valve because my rythem would be pull the bolt to load amo then fire.

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:57 pm
by Grandtheftyourwife
ok well here is an issue ive been having i filled the diaphram with epoxy and super glue and everytime i hit about 50 PSI the glue Pops and all preasue is gone . So i put a 1 1/2 in cap over the diaphram after filling it with superglue and gorilla glued the cap on as well as put a clamp over the cap to hold in from blowing off . Seems kinda strange that a 3'' pvc pipe thats 18'' long cant hold more than 50 psi before bursting.

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:49 pm
by brplatz
what the hell are you doing filling you diaphragm with epoxy? that would keep the sprinkler valve closed?!?1

Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:24 am
by Carlman
i hav just purchased a 1" rain bird with guide rod for an electric fire purpose gu..only problem is air leaks through.this is unmodified totally, air leaks through the tube that goes to outlet from solenoid thus allowing air to pass under diagrpagm a small bit, any ideas?

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:40 pm
by Atrocity
my valve lets out air and makes a honking sound, it says the pilot hole needs to be bigger, is this the hole on the top where the blow gun connects to? Currently i have a 1/4 inch brass fitting to a 1/4 to 1/8 reducere? how much bigger do i need to go?

Diaphragm Valve Problems?

Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:45 pm
by valvemaster
All right all of you who have had problems with Orbit Diaphragm valves not opening with the solenoid. I looked and looked at every forum I could find and I didn't find any good solutions. So being an engineer type person, I sought out my own solution AND I FOUND IT!!!!
So you have a brass Orbit Diaphragm Valve and you have checked everything and the solenoid still does not open it.... The solution was so simple and it was staring me in the face..
After a while of use, the rubber diaphragm will form fit to the brass housing and that is the problem. There is a relief passage from the solenoid bypass orifice that the diaphragm seals off.... okay so take the top off of the diaphragm by removing the 8 screws. lift the edge of the diaphragm near where the solenoid was and you will see a groove in the base of the brass housing. (you will see a corresponding bulge in the rubber diaphragm too AND if you look closely, you will see a pefectly round impression where the diaphragm sealed itself against the passage orifice) Follow that groove up to where it meets a hole that is bored into the housing to provide a water passage to the solenoid valve cavity. The diaphragm acts like a cork and caps that hole and you simply don't have enough water pressure to overcome it when the solenoid acuates.... What I did and it fixed it is: I used my dremmel tool with a small round burr cutter and removed the bottom of the edge of that little bore hole so it flows more smoothly into the existing groove. That way there is no longer a flat faced hole for the diaphragm to seal off. I worked perfectly, I wish I would have figured this out before I systematically replaced each valve a few times, each of which was less than a year old. Thankfully Home Depot was very understanding and didn't hassle me. Hope you can understand this solution... perhaps the average person might not but it is really a very simple solution that worked great.

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:08 pm
by the_shadows
Thanks noname. Your Q&A helped me out a lot. Nice job :)

Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:18 am
by jsefcik
hello fellow spudders, i was wondering, im using a the orbit sprinkler 1 inch valve for my air cannon, i have modified the cannon but i didnt want to connect the blow gun directly to the valve, and so heres my question, Will Air still come out of my blowgun once i have it connected to my sprinkler valve? please help i wanna get my gun built !

Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:26 am
by jsefcik
maybe you guys may have the answer to this but i have made a air cannon using an orbit sprinkler valve, and i modified it using the blowgun just like any other cannon , but after its all connected and pressurized and when i go to release air using the blow gun wouldn't the air simply come out of the top of the blow gun?

reply to this and my email cobby4958@aol.com

Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:59 am
by Crna Legija
if you did it right yes, pics would be helpful

and use the edit button

Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 7:22 pm
by wngovr
Yes, air will come out of the blow gun, but not much. Once the blow gun opens the sprinkler valve, most all the air will exit there, at a high rate of speed.