Design- Springer Pistol

[littlebro05]

Hey guys,

I was bored one day then thought of an easy way to build a compact springer repeater pistol that uses a magazine. The magazine release is fairly simple hard to explain but if you've owned an airsoft pistol you'll understand. The design will be placed inside a m1911 toy cap pistol (not to scale).



1. Orange bit with aqua blue bbs is magazine
2. Spring Plunger and trigger is self explantory
3. Grey dot is an O-ring for hop-up.

But I have one major problem in this design and it is the breech open / close because if air is blasted out of the piston it won't go directly out of the barrel due to friction if you know what I mean.

I can easily build a breech but I just want to have one cock per shot, not one cock, one breech pull per shot. Anyone have any ideas of where I pull the plunger and at the same time the breech opens then closes?

P.S Plunger Spring Information:

Length - 70mm (2.75")
Outside Diametre - 16mm (5/8")
Wire Diametre - 1.40mm
Max Compression Length - 19.6mm

[jackssmirkingrevenge]

As it is, for every shot the air should push the BB in the barrel out while pushing those in the magazine down preventing them from following suit (as long as they're in a tube the same diameter as your barrel) so you don't need any extra moving parts.

[ALIHISGREAT]

why not just buy an M1911 airsoft gun?

[jackssmirkingrevenge]

why not just buy an M1911 airsoft gun?

Probably because it's illegal/beyond the licensing age in his area...

[ALIHISGREAT]

why not just buy an M1911 airsoft gun?

Probably because it's illegal/beyond the licensing age in his area...

worth asking

[littlebro05]

Yeah I'm from Aussieland...

JSR I don't understand your idea

I really want to know how to make this breech work with one smooth movement

Oh and is bondo easy to mould because I need to mould myself a magazine inside it. I've heard people using bondo to make vortex blocks but i have no idea :S

[airheadnoob]

yeah im in the same problem im in aus and i posted problem the same thing but sniper version

[jackssmirkingrevenge]

JSR I don't understand your idea

You're lucky, I'm home for a couple of days and was itching to find an excuse to use animation shop

Assuming your mag tube is the same diameter as your barrel, with each burst of air the BB in the barrel will be pushed out by the air pressure (blue arrow), while those stacked in the mag will be pushed down against the spring pressure (red arrow). As the projectile in the barrel exits the muzzle and pressure reduces, the next BB in line can move up to the barrel and so the cycle continues.

[littlebro05]

Cool thanks,

Btw this is a spring plunger and i'm assuming it'll still work? Alright thanks JSR XD/

And is it better to have a heavy or light spring piston? I' was thinking the lighter the piston the faster it will move and there fore the faster the air is released? Is that the case?

[jackssmirkingrevenge]

It won't be very powerful but it will work. And yes, you want your piston to be as light and friction free as possible.

[littlebro05]

It won't be very powerful but it will work. And yes, you want your piston to be as light and friction free as possible.

Eh as long as it can pierce paper from 30ft I'm happy with that. Or 15ft XD Thanks for the support.



Here's the magazine design I'm going to use, it's to keep the magazine as air tight as I can. The black line across the grey rectangle is the o-oring, But i'm probs going to use teflon to seal it.

[i-will]

the only way the pressure would push down on the bbs in the mag is if u were using a compressed gas like co2. a spring can't provide that pressure if it needs to fit in a m1911. to assure that u don't waste pressure in the mag there should be a nozzle and its not as hard as everyone says it is. this is the easiest single action way i can think of and how one of my old bb guns worked.

when u cock the piston the inner cylinder will pull with it. the air nozzle is opened just enough to load a bb. when u release it everything goes back into place by a spring just strong enough to reset the inner cylinder. then u feel the piston lock. the outer cylinder is what keeps it all together. this way there is no need for sealing the mag which makes it harder to load. it can even be gravity fed.

<a href="http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/ ... ringer.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/ ... ringer.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

i also know an easier way but it won't fit in ur m1911.

[Ragnarok]

@I-will: Looking at that design, I can tell you exactly what's going to happen.

You let go of the cocking lever, and the piston will have slammed forward before the sear has any chance to catch it.
Either that, or it will smash the sear off.

Also, the spring pushing the nozzle and compression chamber forward would need to be very strong, for so many reasons.

Sorry, but I'm not going to beat around the bush... I'm sure it could be made to work with alterations, but that itself won't.

[i-will]

placement of part on this pic isn't exact. i'm showing the basic principal of it. and if it doesn't work that means that my first bb gun was a lie and never existed.

it had all metal parts and definitely hurt from more than 50ft away. whatever company made it made this method work.

[littlebro05]

Hey I-will,

Could you tell me where I should position the hop up? because hop up is pretty imperative especially since i'm using extremely lightweighted craft beads that weight about .10g because when I added hop up it went extremely straight but without it... well it curved really easily. (referring to my cloud designs.

Just put a black dot on your diagram, your help is appreciated