Paintball semi/auto Sniper Plans - UPDATE x99

[Hailfire753]

Post 200! Also a double-post. Sorry.

I have done more research into paintball guns, and I have determined that the HEAR valve is not for me. Morpherman came up with a do-able idea to make a hammer valve out of PVC, and I expanded on it here.Please look at this page to understand the design of the valve. I have made some changes in this varient, which I am tentativly calling the DSH (duel sear hammer) valve.

Also Goose_Man, SPG and me came up with a do-able helical magasine here. In theory it will be silent and have a feed rate of 20+ bps. If I can get the kinks worked out of the DSH they should be able to reach that rate of automatic fire, and be more than fast enough for semi.

Third, Ragnarok sugested a easily-buildable regulator here. Also, I may not make the outer case for the piping out of heat-molded PVC, as for the original plan. Just my luck that wh got new sideing on out house, made of thin flexable aluminum (the box said PVC, which is weird). I will probably use that not only for asthetics, but for safty and sound reduction.

I incorperated these new ideas into the shape of the Barrett XM500 .50 sniper. Enjoy. .5 MOA accuracy, here I come .

[ShowNoMercy]

Nice design, now get it to work in real life

[Hailfire753]

I know, I know. My christmas gift to myself. Anyone see any problems or have any sugestions?

[ShowNoMercy]

My suggestion would be to get a nice bulky prototype going and then go for the 50 cal look.

[iknowmy3tables]

it's closer to a paintball gun, but its a lot of work and machining, I'd highly recomend actully buying a real regulator, its just a part that demads more quality and reliability,

it's just to much perceion in that valve to especally since your choseing a sealing face as part of it

use premade parts unless your a profesional machinist with comercial tools, try using qevs, a palmer, push button valves, 3way valves, and popet and relif valves. i can promise you will not finish this gun with its curent design, I've seen many really cool guns that never got built, at the current design state I predict similar fate

[jackssmirkingrevenge]

Anyone see any problems or have any sugestions?

for starters, coiling 3/4" tubing in a 2" pipe is going to be a bit of an issue... and I'm still not convinced about your dual sear firing mechansim.

[ALIHISGREAT]

It looks like a very complicated design and it will be hard to construct but it can be done i think....

also i agree with iknowmy3tables, you should definitly buy a regulator. oh ad i would use hpa not co2 as it is more consistent and the co2 might cool the pvc too much.

[Tom]

Are you using Adobe flash to draw your diagrams? It looks very complicated to buildt, but success!
GR.Tom

[Hailfire753]

ShowNoMercy- I have a budget of about 150 for now, so I don't have much room for experimentation. That is part of the reason I have delayed so long.

IknowMy3tables - I do plan to get a real paintball regulator, as C02 PSI can go up to 800. The secondary regulator is partially for safty, and partially so I can adjust pressure (and thus range) during a match. I am surprised that you think the design is wso complicated. The only machining that has to be done is dremeling the bushings and o-ring grooves. I will be going JSR epoxy style on the hammer and other custom parts. Epoxy is indicated as a yellow/orange color. This should be vialble at the relatively small callaber I am working at. Thanks for the pre-made parts list, but I am going for a lower price, and frankly I want to be able to brag about building it myself.

Tom - How did you know? I will be animating this design, and most likly making a flash "How to" video when I am done.

JSR - I was wondering that myself. Would 2.5" work? I might have to stick with 3" if neccessary. Also, do you think epoxy would be feasable in such a design? And as for the dual sear thing, I have not quite finnished with the design. Basicly, on semi-auto this vavle acts more like a chamber-sealer, instead of a hammer valve. Would a well designed sear be able to hold back 100 psi of force on a 3/4 epoxy hammer?

ALIHISGREAT- I was thinking of making the refill chamber and secondary reg out of ABS, so that temperature would not be an issue. No PVC welding involved, just two 1/2" metal nipples.


Lastly, I forgot to add a change in the valve. I will upload a new pic. In the current configuration a strong hammer spring is needed to open the piston (JSR, I found a way around this).

[jackssmirkingrevenge]

It's quite an ambitious project, I would suggest starting off with the firing mechanism first. Once you get that to work, the blow forward reloader will be relatively easy to achieve and you can build up from there.

If you're going to make extensive use of epoxy, I suggest you take the trouble of investing in some proper stuff, as explained in my tutorials in the how-to section. If you you've never worked with it before, it might be frustrating at first, but with a little patience it's a worthwhile technique to master.

[DYI]

Unless you're a proffesional machinist with the materials already available, this will be more expensive than buying premade parts. I've seen this valve design before. It obviously restricts flow significantly, but for normal paintball speeds, it shouldn't really matter. Nice design overall, but as Jack said, coiling 3/4" flexible tubing in 2" pipe will be difficult/impossible. Also, your budget is completely unrealistic.

[Hubb]

As far as the magazine goes, that looks like the Q Loader.

I'm not too convinced on your epoxy hammer idea. It would be of better interest to go with a metal one.

One more thing, since you're building a paintball rifle, why not use more paintball products, like a hammer and springs and such? It will make the construction a lot simpler.

[Hailfire753]

JSR - Yes, I have read through your tut, and I was planning to make the piston/hammer mech. first.

DYI. yeah, you might be right about the budget. 150$ is the goal, but I have about 250$ reserved for spudding.

Hubb - Well, if you saw the forum we designed it in, that is where we got the inspiration. A chose epoxy as I am unable to machine metal, and I am kinda stuborn about building things myself. The epoxy piston will have a bumper on it, of course.

I also made an updated picture. I fixed some detailes, but the biggest diference is in the piston. I mentioned this idea before, but I added a "counter piston" in the design (similar to the GB semi) to lower the energy needed to whack open the piston. The hammer spring now only needs to have minimum tension, instead of 200 lbs. of tension to open the piston.

And... I really don't see why you guys say this is so complicated. It is a lot more simple than the mech of a paintball gun, and like I said, a dremmel, hack saw and epoxy should get the job done. Many of JSR's designs are more complicated than this (at least to me), and he mannages.

[VH_man]

mabey i missed something, but why not have the gun simply be a 3/8 inch QEV with a 3/8 inch slide valve at the pilot end? and then just build a blow-foward bolt that way.

i feel like your overcomplicating this. and some paintball guns DO work this way.

Personally, the above way is how i would do it, and is in fact how im going to make my airsoft semi-auto work, except it will work in the NBB format, meaning pulling the trigger closes the breech through mechanical action.

however, if you pull this off... cool.

[DYI]

I hate to say it, but if you don't have a lathe or mill, and can't get someone else to do it for you, you may be screwed. The sheer volume of work that this will involve without proper tools is immense. You would need ghetto construction techniques the equal of JSR's to pull this off with epoxy and hardware store materials.