PVC Detonation Protection
Ragnarok is correct. Sleeving the chamber will do nothing. Build it properly so it will not 'blow up' instead of preparing for if it does.
Here is the link to the test he mentioned. http://www.spudfiles.com/spudtech_archi ... php?t=7786
Here is the link to the test he mentioned. http://www.spudfiles.com/spudtech_archi ... php?t=7786
Exactly my point. The money and effort required to prevent a fragging PVC chamber from being dangerous is more than that required to simply build it right in the first place.Why not just use the steel pipe then?
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
Yeah just look at his post countfrankrede wrote:Second dumbass false information post on my count?*5*STAR*GENERAL* wrote:the best thing is to sleve the chamber but leave some pipe out to attatch to triggering mech. uese some type of teflaun or heavy cotton. first put a layer of tight fabric then a lose layer then antother tight layer on top then (this can get repettative) add another loses layer. the first 3 layers will slow a leak or solw down any frags then the top layer will finally stop the frags completley. have fun be safe and good luck.
anyone else keeping count?
<a href="">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.
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IS anyone else aware that PVC is now starting to not be pressure rated?
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say your pvc is rated for 200 psi. what if u cut the gun in half and glue it together with glue of about 170 psi? wouldnt t just snap instead of send shrapnel?
OR, you could just build it properly. For your own good, just prevent the chamber from failing in the first place, don't try to make it fail in a better manner. If a decent sized PVC chamber snaps in half at the middle at 150 psi, you risk permanent hearing damage if you're close to it.
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
this idea is horrible, you are now in a category with 5 Star Generalrp181 wrote:say your pvc is rated for 200 psi. what if u cut the gun in half and glue it together with glue of about 170 psi? wouldnt t just snap instead of send shrapnel?
<a href="">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.
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He may not be quite in that category yet, but he's well on his way. I believe rp181 was the one saying he was going to use glued together pop cans for an oxy/hydrogen mix.this idea is horrible, you are now in a category with 5 Star General
Have you ever noticed that people declared forum idiot usually just disappear? I haven't seen any posts from 5star recently.
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
Well it's probably for the best, hopefully they won't be able to contaminate the resources here with their idiocracy
<a href="">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.
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Hi,
Sorry to hear about the accident.
I'd say, don't use hard PVC at all. There are other stronger, safer and more modern plastics available. They are softer and not brittle; if a cannon made of these materials fails, you will probably have large, whole pieces flying about but no shards (sp?).
BUT they cannot be cemented as easily as PVC. They might be harder to work & cut, too. The plumbers (at least here in Europe) have special equipment for welding it.
It could be interesting to find out other methods to join these parts (I only know of expanding foam, which is excellent for combustions and maybe usable for pneumatics, and in general it's quite messy). Or, to find out a low-cost way of welding them.
Regards
Soren
Sorry to hear about the accident.
I'd say, don't use hard PVC at all. There are other stronger, safer and more modern plastics available. They are softer and not brittle; if a cannon made of these materials fails, you will probably have large, whole pieces flying about but no shards (sp?).
BUT they cannot be cemented as easily as PVC. They might be harder to work & cut, too. The plumbers (at least here in Europe) have special equipment for welding it.
It could be interesting to find out other methods to join these parts (I only know of expanding foam, which is excellent for combustions and maybe usable for pneumatics, and in general it's quite messy). Or, to find out a low-cost way of welding them.
Regards
Soren
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This is a tad bit off topic but it does deal with exploding PVC, well not yet at least. I just bought a 5 foot section of SCH 40 NSF dwv rated to 330 psi. Now I got it cause I was in a rush and now I am second guessing myself. If it has a pressure rating does that cancel the DWV rating?
Jesus saves, no need to pray
The gates of pearl have turned to gold
It seems you've lost your way
The gates of pearl have turned to gold
It seems you've lost your way
Yup. The reason it's marked DWV is if it can handle 330 psi, it is certainly qualified for the gravity pressure of drainage systems.ShowNoMercy wrote:This is a tad bit off topic but it does deal with exploding PVC, well not yet at least. I just bought a 5 foot section of SCH 40 NSF dwv rated to 330 psi. Now I got it cause I was in a rush and now I am second guessing myself. If it has a pressure rating does that cancel the DWV rating?
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
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So I can use it and not worry that my face might go boom?
Jesus saves, no need to pray
The gates of pearl have turned to gold
It seems you've lost your way
The gates of pearl have turned to gold
It seems you've lost your way