Self-closing piston valve (brass fittings)
This is the way I build a high pressure self-closing piston valve (barrel sealer).
min. actuation pressure: 30 psi (varies due to the used spring and piston)
The parts:
1/2" quick connect (only to connect a blowgun, not to pressurize)
3/4" female to 1/2" male
1" female to 3/4" male
1" nipple (find one with a smooth surface inside)
1" tee
3/4" hose barb
1" to 3/4" reducer
1 bolt 2 fitting nuts
3 sealing gaskets (3/4")
1 washer -> size of the sealing gasket
2 washers -> I.D. of the 1" nipple
Step 1:
Screw the 3/4" hose barb into the 1" to 3/4" reducer and then the reducer into the 1" tee.
Nice about these hose barbs is that they have short threads, so there is enough space to add multiple barrels.
For this valve I chose a large tee compared to the "barrel" to have a good air flow and a smaller pilot chamber.
Step 2: build a piston (optional way)
This is basically a bolt piston but with two tricks I want to show you.
If you have ever build a bolt piston you might have realized that it is not that easy to get the washers into one line. Simply take two nuts and grind one side of them to form a cone. This way your washers are always centered (you can see it on the right nut on the picture).
To make the piston seal, take two sealing gaskets that are little smaller than your housing (in this case 1" nipple -> 3/4" gasket). Place them between two washers and nuts. Now screw the nuts so that the gaskets squeeze out. This way you get a perfect sealing piston.
Step 3: Assembling of the pilot section
Quick connector -> 1/2"male to 3/4"female -> 3/4"male to 1" female
Optional: Quick connector -> 1/2"male to 1" female (if you find one, even better)
Step 4: Finding the right spring (this step needs some tweaking)
You have to find a spring that is not to strong or to weak.
to strong: The piston only opens at very high pressure with bad flow or it doesn't open at all.
to weak: The piston doesn't seal and the air leaks out of the barrel.
If you think that you have the perfect spring but the air still leaks out of the barrel then your piston might seal to well in it's housing. A little equalization should be installed.
Picture of the pilot chamber. It's already small but still improvable. The valve can be actuated with a blowgun @ 30 psi.
min. actuation pressure: 30 psi (varies due to the used spring and piston)
The parts:
1/2" quick connect (only to connect a blowgun, not to pressurize)
3/4" female to 1/2" male
1" female to 3/4" male
1" nipple (find one with a smooth surface inside)
1" tee
3/4" hose barb
1" to 3/4" reducer
1 bolt 2 fitting nuts
3 sealing gaskets (3/4")
1 washer -> size of the sealing gasket
2 washers -> I.D. of the 1" nipple
Step 1:
Screw the 3/4" hose barb into the 1" to 3/4" reducer and then the reducer into the 1" tee.
Nice about these hose barbs is that they have short threads, so there is enough space to add multiple barrels.
For this valve I chose a large tee compared to the "barrel" to have a good air flow and a smaller pilot chamber.
Step 2: build a piston (optional way)
This is basically a bolt piston but with two tricks I want to show you.
If you have ever build a bolt piston you might have realized that it is not that easy to get the washers into one line. Simply take two nuts and grind one side of them to form a cone. This way your washers are always centered (you can see it on the right nut on the picture).
To make the piston seal, take two sealing gaskets that are little smaller than your housing (in this case 1" nipple -> 3/4" gasket). Place them between two washers and nuts. Now screw the nuts so that the gaskets squeeze out. This way you get a perfect sealing piston.
Step 3: Assembling of the pilot section
Quick connector -> 1/2"male to 3/4"female -> 3/4"male to 1" female
Optional: Quick connector -> 1/2"male to 1" female (if you find one, even better)
Step 4: Finding the right spring (this step needs some tweaking)
You have to find a spring that is not to strong or to weak.
to strong: The piston only opens at very high pressure with bad flow or it doesn't open at all.
to weak: The piston doesn't seal and the air leaks out of the barrel.
If you think that you have the perfect spring but the air still leaks out of the barrel then your piston might seal to well in it's housing. A little equalization should be installed.
Picture of the pilot chamber. It's already small but still improvable. The valve can be actuated with a blowgun @ 30 psi.
Last edited by MRR on Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Great how-to for those beginning to work with metal rather than PVC, and just informative in general. All your posts been great so far keep it up!
- Combustion Monkey
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Nice clean job. Its amazing how similar this is to the piston that I put together for my hybrid project, except that mine is a chamber sealer that is blown open by the combustion. Its interesting to see how two independent ideas can come out so much alike.
- POLAND_SPUD
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I second that... lol Jmeyer that's exactly what I had in mind...Great how-to for those beginning to work with metal rather than PVC, and just informative in general. All your posts been great so far keep it up!
@MRR I like that you used a hosebarb that was very clever and simple at the same time
feel free to add more good stuff
Children are the future
unless we stop them now
unless we stop them now
Thanks fore the kind comments, I really appreciate that.
@mark
The concept of that valve is to power a semi auto. The quick connect is only to attach the blowgun. I fill the chamber from another place, it's simply faster than pushing the pressure through a small equalization hole.
@mark
The concept of that valve is to power a semi auto. The quick connect is only to attach the blowgun. I fill the chamber from another place, it's simply faster than pushing the pressure through a small equalization hole.
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Quick question MRR, What's total cost for the valve? I'm looking to build a copper pneumatic to go with the fridge compressor I recently got. I love my 2" golf ball cannon but the neighbors don't.
- POLAND_SPUD
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I suggest using malleable iron fittings where possible to cut costs
Children are the future
unless we stop them now
unless we stop them now
- daberno123
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I'm a bit confused on how you got the hose barb inside the tee.
Can you screw the hose barb into the reducer from side with the 1" threads on the outside? I thought the threads would only match up if you screwed it in from the 3/4" side?
Could someone clarify this for me?
Other than that its a great write-up.
Can you screw the hose barb into the reducer from side with the 1" threads on the outside? I thought the threads would only match up if you screwed it in from the 3/4" side?
Could someone clarify this for me?
Other than that its a great write-up.
- sniper hero
- Specialist 3
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- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:12 pm
great work
I made something similar before but without a spring
daberno123: you can screw the hose barb in the other side of the 3/4 reducer
then screw that with the hose barb pointing in inside the T
there is enough space left on the other side for a barrel
I made something similar before but without a spring
daberno123: you can screw the hose barb in the other side of the 3/4 reducer
then screw that with the hose barb pointing in inside the T
there is enough space left on the other side for a barrel
proud member of dutch spud clan
coming: semi auto pellet sniper:D
coming: semi auto pellet sniper:D
- SpudsMcGee
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I third that! (In a corny tone)jmeyer1022 wrote:Great how-to for those beginning to work with metal rather than PVC, and just informative in general. All your posts been great so far keep it up!
This how-to is just as good as all you're others and I think it will benefit all spudders alike. (In a noble tone)
(\_/)
(o.o)
(><)
Current Project: Slasher Valve
(o.o)
(><)
Current Project: Slasher Valve
- daberno123
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Do you have to grind away any lip or anything on the reducer?sniper hero wrote: you can screw the hose barb in the other side of the 3/4 reducer
then screw that with the hose barb pointing in inside the T
Looks nice and pricey cause of brass. The look reminds me of a "French QEV" or as they like to call it.
Nice job
Nice job
4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka