A question for all you soldering experts
- colty-bear
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try just melting the old wire then go over it again
My first 300 spud bux.
- mark.f
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Not really.
Unless you sand all the surfaces back to bare metal, and at the same time don't remove too much material to where the clearances widen enough to inhibit the capillary action while soldering.
When I muck up a joint, I just rebuy the parts. It's not worth the work and uneasiness.
Unless you sand all the surfaces back to bare metal, and at the same time don't remove too much material to where the clearances widen enough to inhibit the capillary action while soldering.
When I muck up a joint, I just rebuy the parts. It's not worth the work and uneasiness.
Mark thats not true at all. Heat it until it parts then simply rub the old solder down enough to get the fittings back on, reflux and go again.
I dont wish to wet anyone bonfire but I have been soldering for about 25 years.
I dont wish to wet anyone bonfire but I have been soldering for about 25 years.
- jrrdw
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Important keyword highlighted in red.UKSGC wrote:Mark thats not true at all. Heat it until it parts then simply rub the old solder down enough to get the fittings back on, reflux and go again.
I dont wish to wet anyone bonfire but I have been soldering for about 25 years.
- Technician1002
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I agree, Flux is required to crust and float off oxidized solder. I have re-used copper parts with no issues.jrrdw wrote:Important keyword highlighted in red.UKSGC wrote:Mark thats not true at all. Heat it until it parts then simply rub the old solder down enough to get the fittings back on, reflux and go again.
I dont wish to wet anyone bonfire but I have been soldering for about 25 years.
Instead of sanding the parts to remove excess amounts of the old solder, just heat the solder to the flowing point and quickly wipe it off with a damp rag. This removes the excess solder and the oxidized solder leaving a nice shiny tinned surface. Flux, assemble and solder. Use a cotton rag, not anything synthetic that will melt.
for what its worth
although you have to heat both parts ftg and pipe it helps to throw a little more heat on the pipe .
smacking or knocking off the fitting in a strait line is usually a lot less work than pulling apart.
keep an eye on your heat it's way too easy to make every thing soft.
a flux brush works good to swipe the excess solder from the inside of the fitting ,outside of pipe too.
a dry rag works better than a wet rag in a couple of ways ..more time to get all solder off before solder hardens ,wicks some also
although you have to heat both parts ftg and pipe it helps to throw a little more heat on the pipe .
smacking or knocking off the fitting in a strait line is usually a lot less work than pulling apart.
keep an eye on your heat it's way too easy to make every thing soft.
a flux brush works good to swipe the excess solder from the inside of the fitting ,outside of pipe too.
a dry rag works better than a wet rag in a couple of ways ..more time to get all solder off before solder hardens ,wicks some also
"A lot of what is taken for engineering fact is nothing more than somebody`s opinion when you dig into it far enough."
Henry "Smokey" Yunick, 1923-2001
Henry "Smokey" Yunick, 1923-2001