SpudFiles

I recall a while ago discussions of the troubles and possible solutions to the problem of fully seating solvent welded fitting in large diameter PVC due to the large force required. Youtube may once again hold the answer.




Here is a direct link


Also

Anyone see a spudgun use for this cutter?

Edit apparently im not smart enough to figure out how to embed these videos.

I just took the Ipex solvent welding course and in the solvent cement guide i found this information on large diameter pipe. http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/solvent ... t3009.html

4. Increase size of joining crew:
• 6" - 8": 2-3 people per joint
• 10" - 30": 3-4 people per joint
It is important in large diameter joining that the
primer and cement be applied simultaneously to the
pipe and fittings.
5. Make sure to apply a second full layer of cement to
the pipe.
6. Because of the short sockets in many large
diameter fittings, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO HAVE
PIPE BOTTOMED INTO THE FITTING. It is for this
reason that we recommend above 6" diameter the use of
a come-a-long.
7. Large diameter pipe and fittings require longer set and
cure times. *(In cold weather, a heat blanket may be
used to speed up the set and cure times.)

But with that thing you cant turn the pipe 1/4 of a turn.

That did occur to me however with good distribution of cement and primer on both the fitting and pipe is it truly nessasary? The solvent weld course said if possible rotate the fitting but they aren't pressurizing their fitting with air either.

Delete the code you tried to use embed the video with, and use the youtube tag [youtube] and its counterpart, with the url of the video between.

I have not been able to get a 1/4 turn with 6 inch pipe. They are most correct in either using a come-along or a crew of several people. That size tends to try to spit out the pipe with high force. It takes a lot of pressure to get it together. Rope, pulleys, S hooks, and lots of care was required to make the Dragon. Even worse than gluing is making bells on the pipe. That was a major wrestling match for me.



Even then I didn't get one end fully seated. I got it most of the way in and it has held fine.

I thought it was weird, I was able to fully seat the Sched 80 fitting at the breech but not the Sched 40 muzzle end.

The Dragon is a 2.5 inch tennis ball coaxial air cannon.

I made bells so the cannon would look nicer instead of using couplers. It also made fewer glue joints. I do not recommend attempting 6 is bells. They are hard to do.

Technician1002 wrote: Even worse than gluing is making bells on the pipe. That was a major wrestling match for me.

I do not recommend attempting 6 is bells. They are hard to do.

How do you make the bells ?

Heat the pipe until it is soft like a garden hose and than press it on a forming tool which expands it much like putting tubing on a hose barb. Forcing a 6 inch hose onto a barb is difficult.

I made a tool by using a piece of pipe sharpened like a spudcutter with a wood dowel type insert as the barb. The pipe was softened, then shoved over the wooden dowel and then expanded onto the beveled edge pipe. When it was cool, the form was pulled out and the fitting glued in. This is the same way I made the breech on my Mouse Musket.

This thread has some discussion on working with softened PVC including some examples of bending it.
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/general ... 18336.html
Soft PVC bending example;


Mouse Musket breech was made using a sharpened 1.5 inch female adapter as the tool as it is not the same size as 2 inch pipe. After forming, it is glued in.


This video clearly shows properly heated PVC is soft like a garden hose. Be very careful that you don't overheat it.
[youtube][/youtube]

http://www.instructables.com/id/Forming ... -PVC-pipe/
Not the best tutorial ever but you get the idea.