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Need aluminum block machined

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 1:52 am
by JDP12
Hey all, I'm lookin for someone to machine me something out of a block of aluminum. Specs are attached, diagrams may be a little unclear please let me know if there is any confusion.


i don't have the aluminum, if need be i can order it and ship it to whoever it is, but if you can procure the aluminum yourself that'd be easier, I can still pay ya for the block.

JSR if ya want a crack, i'd love to have a piece of my gun that was made by you, shoot me a PM and we'll talk shipping costs, as I really wanna get some of your work in person.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:05 am
by jackssmirkingrevenge
I would love to help but even if I pay myself minimum wage, it would take so long to do on the little Sherline that it would cost you a small fortune. This is more appropriate for someone with more heavy duty equipment ;)

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:08 am
by JDP12
well shit, that's disappointing.

For other interested people- this isn't a sure deal, i can easily do this without a machined block, i can do it with a couple tees, but i'd like to get an idea of prices first, if the price of a machined block is reasonable, i'd do that.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:31 am
by ramses
That seems do-able, but I don't have any 2" wide aluminum stock on hand. I have some ~2.25" round, but I'd have to take off SOOO much material. The closest I have is 1"x 1.25".

Depending on time scale, Ill see if I can hit up my employer for a drop.

The only other foreseeable problem is the blind threads, especially the .5" depth 1/2" NPT. My only 1/2" NPT tap is very tapered.


If I have the right size block, I can't see this taking me more than 2 hours if we resolve the blind threads so call it $15 + materials?

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:46 am
by mark.f
I think you could do this with a drill press and some hand taps, actually. Sure, you won't get +/- 0.005" precision, but you would easily get a product which could be used for what you're using it for. Hell, you could make it out of plastic if you're making something like PS's mark III.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:13 pm
by POLAND_SPUD
Sure, you won't get +/- 0.005" precision
mine wasn't precise at all

IIRC the ID was 9.1mm specificaly to improve reliability - so that ammo couldn't be blocked by a small spec of sand or something like that

Besides I guess it made machining it easier as precision wasn't that important (0.2mm +/- wouldn't be a big deal as the ammo I used was 8.731mm)

There is no need for high precision in something that essentially is a double T drilled in an alu block.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:34 pm
by ramses
Another thing: there will have to be some radius on the mag well. And the iso view seems to conflict with the other views.


I will add that I am going to go pick up the block in about an hour. If you don't want it, Ill use it for something else.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 1:20 pm
by JDP12
ok looks like theres been some confusion.. the block is only 1" wide if there was confusion wiwth that.

Why did you think the mag well has to have a radius? the iso view shows it as having a radius on the top where it meets the barrel hole, but really its just a straight through slot to the barrel, no curves on that.

what are some of the other issues you see?

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:50 pm
by ramses
To actually make the part, there needs to be a radius. Picture cutting it out with a drill bit. To make it sharp, one would file or broachit.

The other issue is the iso view. It shows a sort of reverse pyramid that bottoms out. The other views show a "normal" slot that mates with the hole for what I assume is the bolt.


Sent from my phone.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:50 pm
by JDP12
ok i get what you mean by the radius... can you not do a sharp slot? not a huge problem if you cant..


as far as your reverse pyramid in iso.. i'm not seeing it? Are you saying the mag well looks tapered? it's a straight slot, through to the .625" hole. I'll try to clear it up

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:56 pm
by ramses
i can get it down to a .0625 radius, depending on depth, then file.

I figured you wanted a straight slot. I was seeing the pyramid in the iso view on the same pdf as the side views.

I can start work this week. I have some other stuff I have to finish first, though.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:09 pm
by JDP12
.0625 radius on each of the four corners would be acceptable, if ya could file it down that'd be better since i gotta get the magazine to fit as well.

Any other questions you got on the design? the .5" hole with 1/2" NPT should go through to the .625" hole, as thats the air inlet to the barrel not sure if that was clear.

what are we talking price wise?

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:20 pm
by ramses
everything else seems straight forward. is it an issue if the 1/2" npt port goes through to the barrel/bolt (at the larger diameter? Not critical, but would make things easier. I will file the mag well to make it squarer.

How about ~$20, plus shipping?

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:41 pm
by JDP12
nope thats fine, i figured it might be easier if ya do it that way. that don't matter.

$20 plus shipping sounds fine to me. Do you need an aluminum block sent to you or can you get one?

Also, just so you know the 3/8-24 threads on the back are to mount an air cylinder- here's mcmaster's cad drawing of it for ya

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/6498k113/=fg7buw

whats the width of the piece you're using?

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:54 pm
by ramses
JDP12 wrote:nope thats fine, i figured it might be easier if ya do it that way. that don't matter.

$20 plus shipping sounds fine to me. Do you need an aluminum block sent to you or can you get one?

Also, just so you know the 3/8-24 threads on the back are to mount an air cylinder- here's mcmaster's cad drawing of it for ya

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/6498k113/=fg7buw
thanks! PM me with your address. I'll respond with my paypal account. Ill send pictures before I expect payment. I have the block.