SpudFiles

what barrel size should i use for 5.5 mm lead pellets..( for a new project). As i think rifled barrels aren;t 5.5 mm but less..so the groves will be cut...

I had found a 8 x 1,3 mm inox pipe. 5,4 mm inner diam..
Should i take the 5,4 mm or should i search a 5.5 mm ? i do have in my mind to cut some groves at the last 5-10 cm of the barrel....sort of a FX barrel style...
the gun should be a SS Condor style..

I'd go for 5.4 if you're going to use lead pellets.
Why not just buy a barrel? A Gamo barrel cost around 25 euros.

wyz2285 wrote:I'd go for 5.4 if you're going to use lead pellets.
Why not just buy a barrel? A Gamo barrel cost around 25 euros.

it is illegal round here to make stuff... the 6 mm caliber is a little bit interpretable in the text of law .(as it is an airsoft).
but to use a part of a real airgun is much more illegal....you are not allowed to take the barrel from a airgun that you legally own and use it for what ever you like...

Groove diameter should be .215"-.216". Rifling depth is generally around .002" for airguns....puts diameter at the lands ~.211"-.212".

So called "smooth twist" barrels have the "rifling" swaged in...likely the choke is done at the same time. Can watch the process as performed by FX on youtube IIRC.

What you describe is more like the "rifling" found with a "Paradox gun".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paradox_gun

An alternative to rifling would be to find a way to make your own drag-stabilized slugs. Aluminium tubing that is exactly 6mm outer diameter is easy to find, cut it into short lengths (say 30-40mm) and find a consistent way to cap it on one end with a heavy weight, it could be something as simple as a small screw that would also give you the benefit of a hard penetrating tip. The key to accuracy would be making them all the same length and using the same screw every time.

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:An alternative to rifling would be to find a way to make your own drag-stabilized slugs. Aluminium tubing that is exactly 6mm outer diameter is easy to find, cut it into short lengths (say 30-40mm) and find a consistent way to cap it on one end with a heavy weight, it could be something as simple as a small screw that would also give you the benefit of a hard penetrating tip. The key to accuracy would be making them all the same length and using the same screw every time.

i had i my mind to use the auger/drill to make 2 groves(i think Steier ..Staier? use this ), only 2 of them, i will cut it's apex, make a cut in it's middle and stuck a piece of metal....in such way to control the diameter off the auger cutter after the groves starting to appear . I know it will work ( after several fails), but inox is a hard material to work with.....