SpudFiles

I would add a few more holes to the bottom, you don't want to stress the fan motor either

If it helps at all, for very high power transmitter tube such as Radio and Television (50-200KW) the tubes have fins on the anode (hot part) and it is mounted in a "Chimney". The transmitter final is under pressure with a blower much like a leaf blower and air goes past the tube, through it's fins and up the chimney to carry the heat away.

Here are a couple of transmitter tubes outside the transmitter. You can see they are serious in regards to the tube cooling.

Found a compressor for $5 on an auction website so I thought i'd buy it for a rainy day since it was cheap as chips.



Indel B G.E.3 compressor, problem is I can't find any technical data on it and i'm not quite sure how I wire it up since the controller isn't connected to the compressor. On the side of the compressor is 3 prongs sticking out and that's it.

No rush to get it working or anything, my hybrid is fulfilling all my current needs

That is a 24 volt DC compressor. The finned package on the right is the inverter to drive the compressor with an AC signal. The inverter should have a + and - input. Too bad the wire between the compressor and controller is missing. Time to spend more time in Google. Maybe if you find the diagram of the appliance this is from, you may get lucky and find a diagram from there.

Can you ask the seller what this is from including the model number?

It looks like it may fit something like this;
http://www.sailgb.com/p/indel_b_cruise_ ... _49_litre/

EDIT FOUND A DIAGRAM..
www.isotherm.se/pdf/ManDR49_65Sv.pdf

Here is more info on the same series under another name;
www.novakool.com/support/bd35f_compressor_data.pdf

The 3 wires connect to the 3 pins as this compressor has 3 windings all the same.

He said in the auction:

Item ex Motorhome Builder receivership
This unit was in the company store room

The model of the compressor is G.E.3, that's all it seems to say.

edit: Yes, I believe it is from a mini fridge like that.

I also has fridge compressor and no skillz!

Do I add a switch to the thermostat cable and run it as such? Can I just bridge the thermostat circuit so it runs whenever I plug it in?

Do I add a switch to the thermostat cable and run it as such? Can I just bridge the thermostat circuit so it runs whenever I plug it in?

Both would be ok.... though IMO it is better to have a switch, as it's more convenient

POLAND_SPUD wrote:Both would be ok.... though IMO it is better to have a switch, as it's more convenient

I'll give it a go when I get home, would be nice to have a "low" HPA range alternative to my SCUBA

Also, a friend of mine just took apart a camper van which apparently had a minibar fridge... I still haven't seen it but I sense the potential for on-board HPA for the landy

As a side note, I see there seems to be no mention of fridge compressors in the wiki. How does one edit it? It also seems to be lagging in general behind the forum and doesn't reflect the material and design progress that happens here on a regular basis.

I see there seems to be no mention of fridge compressors in the wiki

I can't post there because I can't log in there (my member name/login has '_' in it )

Personally, I think it would be better if someone made a step by step video on how to remove & wire a fridge compressor, how to attach the output tube to threaded fittings, why you need a BV for venting etc.
If a pic is worth 1000 words... then a 10 minute video is better than a couple of pages of text

Also, a friend of mine just took apart a camper van which apparently had a minibar fridge... I still haven't seen it but I sense the potential for on-board HPA for the landy

At least you'd stop using the phrase 'urban environment' and 'collateral damage' as an excuse

Look what I found while searching for my original thread
'fridge compressor' + author 'POLAND_SPUD'

Search found 111 matches

Fridge compressor

Search found 303 matches

ohh btw I also found a cool video
[youtube][/youtube]

EDIT
Do you think it would be possible to use the starting winding to get more power? (for example if you want to achieve higher pressures)
That would probably require an efficient cooling system...

POLAND_SPUD wrote:Personally, I think it would be better if someone made a step by step video on how to remove & wire a fridge compressor, how to attach the output tube to threaded fittings, why you need a BV for venting etc.
If a pic is worth 1000 words... then a 10 minute video is better than a couple of pages of text

That would indeed be helpful. You have a camera, no? And it would be cool to have the instructions in a Polish accent

At least you'd stop using the phrase 'urban environment' and 'collateral damage' as an excuse

Not exactly many open areas I can drive to but it would certainly exapnd my horizons

Look what I found while searching for my original thread
'fridge compressor' + author 'POLAND_SPUD'

Search found 111 matches

We know, we know, when it comes to encouraging people to release freon into the atmosphere, you the man

ohh btw I also find a cool video

Hadn't you posted this before?

lol PUI FTW!!

Are you sure none of your ancestors were polish ?

It wouldn't be a bad idea to organise a meeting for European spudders (preferably in a country where booze is cheap)

EDIT
lol sorry but I concluded that you were drunk cause you made a couple typos
but it's your fault not mine

Do you think it would be possible to use the starting winding to get more power? (for example if you want to achieve higher pressures)
That would probably require an efficient cooling system...

The short answer is NO. The start winding is offset 90 degrees from the main winding. It's only purpose is to pull the rotor off center to impart rotation. Once up to speed, the magnetic field induced in the rotor goes back and forth at the same rate the applied AC power pushes it. The very high power the start winding draws will burn it out in less than a minute in many cases, or you will blow a circuit breaker. It does not add high power torque to the compressor once it is up to speed.

Some compressors are designed to have a limited current in the start winding after it is started. The start current and run current and phase shift for the magnetic angle required is done with run and start caps. This is often seen on high start torque high power compressors for central air conditioning.

This diagram shows a typical Capacitor start diagram. The Capicator phase shifts the current in the start winding and that switches out after the motor comes up to speed.


A start run setup uses a high value start cap and then switches to a low value run cap. This setup is often used on larger compressors and may work for a fridge. You will want to use a much smaller cap as you are using a much smaller compressor. The compressor and cap need to be matched in size.


Do not simply connect the start winding to power without a cap and leave it on. It will burn out the winding.

Try using a 4MFD 350 volt run cap.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to organise a meeting for European spudders (preferably in a country where booze is cheap)

I might be travelling to Poland next year with the lady

Anyway, back on topic:

Before I plug this in, have I got it the right way round?

edit: looking at the previous photo before I ripped everything off, it seems I have got it wrong. The loose black wire should be live, yes?

hard to say.... but it was attached to something before you started playing with it, right ? check what it was

check my edit, it was live and I was compressor! woo!
Very disappointing whirring noise, is it meant to be so quiet? Or does it get louder under load?

While we're asking 'lectric questions, I have this rather nice cooling fan, I presume it's an AC motor but no live or neutral markings on the pins and the wires aren't colour coded - does this mean I can connect it either way?