SpudFiles

Alright thanks man...

i dub this totaly bad ass

Hasent somebody said that before but I would have to agree with you.
This is a great gun

brother361 wrote:i dub this totaly bad ass

Oh come on, surely you've been here long enough to know not to dig up an old thread unless you have something useful to say?

ok ok dude calm down lol

Its not that big of a deal to kick up a dead topic(to me that is some members will go insane)But it gets kind of annoying if you do it to much and you dont want to anger all those members that really dont like it so i would recommend you try avoid it unless as rag said you have something useful to say.

Well, it's not so much of a problem in the showcase area, like here, but often it can prove confusing in the discussion areas:
"Wow, this sounds just like something I remember from two months ago. Now, where's that thread? Hang on, wait a minute..."

In general, because it confuses people, old threads are usually best read, but not posted in unless there's something major to add.

But I suppose it's "acceptable" here.

It was sgort that said that.

I want to solder a gun too but is it diffecult to get it air tight ?

This cannon was not soldered at all.

All the copper pipe connections which are not compression fittings are made using a copper pipe glue called JustForCopper which is rated to 500psi.

As to how difficult it is to get airtight I can say I had to redo the chamber end once after finding a small leak during construction (I used a camping stove flame to heat up the end and turn the old glue to sticky powder - allowing the fittings to come loose, get cleaned up and reglued).

It's all experience based. Of course no one wants to have to redo connections on a cannon but if your job isn't plumbing you've a reasonable chance of making mistakes.

With soldered connections that leak a little you can reheat the join with a blowtorch and add more solder or sometimes just the reheating causes the solder already there to seal the leak.

You either havn't used enough solder, not got the joint hot enough, or got it too hot.

This is how I have done it for 15 years. I have never had a leak.

Lay-out your pieces, test fit ALL of the joints. When everything is right, you can start soldering. (Try not to work yourself "into a corner" )

Follow a logical progression. If you need to see the end of the barrel in the T fitting, don't solder the chamber on first.

Clean both sides of the joint, copper comes with a protective finish which must be removed. (why do you think it isn't all corroded?) There is a tool for this. (emery cloth works too)

Apply a proper flux to both sides of the joint.

Assemble joint, then heat until the flux "sizzles". Keep moving the torch around the joint.

Apply solder, it will "wick" into the joint when the proper temperature is reached.

If the solder bubbles, you are using too much heat, back off a bit.

Continue to apply solder until it "beads" on the outside of the joint.

Allow the joint to cool slightly, then wipe any excess flux off with a damp rag.

For those of you who are not quite competent in the soldering/glueing department, it is quite possible to build this gun with compression fittings only.
That way all you need is a spanner or two.
It is also very easy to overtighten a compression fitting - too tight, and you'll damage the little ring thingy...

This is my first post, so i apologise if i've dug up an old thread or offended anyone....

Rob Thornton wrote:For those of you who are not quite competent in the soldering/glueing department, it is quite possible to build this gun with compression fittings only.
That way all you need is a spanner or two.
It is also very easy to overtighten a compression fitting - too tight, and you'll damage the little ring thingy...

This is my first post, so i apologise if i've dug up an old thread or offended anyone....

Welcome to the forum. It's a post worthy of being dug up IMO.
And you pointed something out as well. 8)

you seems to be a guy that is going to be hanging around.
no noob in you my friend