SpudFiles

mark.f wrote:"Low" pressure testing video.

Nice, how high is "low"

I'm going to use my mind power and guess about 160 PSI is the low pressure he used.

Or you could cheat and read the words on the beginning of the video..

Technician1002 wrote:Or you could cheat and read the words on the beginning of the video.

D'oh In my defense, I'm fromt a generation used to fast-forwarding the beginning and skipping straight to the good bits

I'm busy with a 6 mm plinker.
I still have some work to do.



Tell me what you think.

Air chamber is 12 mm copper soldered with 50/50 tin/lead solder. To what pressure would it be safe?

Looking good, have you ditched the hammer valve for a lever type pilot or was that the plan all along?

To what pressure would it be safe?

Over 9000 psi

Labtecpower wrote: Tell me what you think.

Air chamber is 12 mm copper soldered with 50/50 tin/lead solder. To what pressure would it be safe?

Looks nice.

If you've sweated the joints FULL....even with 50/50 they're likely stronger than the tube.

When in doubt...calculate the area of the joint (shear area) and find the lap shear strength of 50/50...then calculate the failure point. The math and the strength are in the stirrup pump how to.

Jack...

Over 9000 psi

If you stand next to it when pressurizing, Okay !

I decided to dump the hammer because a lever leaves more room for a nice sleek stock.

I fill & pilot it with a presta, works very well!

The connections are entirely filled. The solder dripped out.

Looks good! What type of sights are you planning on using?

I don't know yet. Maybe i'll use the same sights as i'm currently using on my copper gun.

I have access to a complete machine shop, so I might make them out of metal.

Does anyone know a way to turn binoculars into a nice scope?

Labtecpower wrote:Does anyone know a way to turn binoculars into a nice scope?

Attach them to the top of the barrel

If you're suggesting using only half the binoculars, I wouldn't even bother. You can get a fairly good scope really cheap, especially considering all the fiddling that will be required because of that darned focus knob.

Red-dot all the way. Especially this time of year when I get home and have less than 30 minutes of failing light left.

The connections are entirely filled. The solder dripped out.

Normally when soldering pipe, solder will wick (be drawn in) into the joint when it is properly heated. Common practice is to just add enough solder so when it stops sucking in the joint, it is full. If you are soldering by globbing solder onto the joint, then it becomes impossible to tell if the flux worked, the joint was hot enough or too hot as you can't reliably see how much solder was sucked into the joint.

Don't apply heat to the solder with the torch and drip it on the pipe.. Heat the pipe and let the hot pipe melt the solder and wick it into the joint.

Apply solder and watch it wick into the joint all the way around the pipe. If it drips off instead of wicking into the joint, something is wrong.

On scope vs field glasses. One provides space for recoil withouot poking your eye out.

The joint completely filled up with solder. I just added too much to make sure it had an optimal strength

I used solder with a flux core, but to allow good wetting inside the joint I added some tin chloride flux to it.

Maybe you aren't completely understanding what I want to say. (English isn't my native language)

Labtecpower wrote:Maybe you aren't completely understanding what I want to say. (English isn't my native language)

Never crossed my mind... rifle looks nice by the way, nice job.

ITWOST will a propylene fitting stand up to air pressure as long as its rated for 150psi of water pressure?