SpudFiles

I usually make smaller guns, the bigget being 1.5" PVC, and I use 1/2" sheet for all of my blocks. 2" is too big to be practical, simply because of how big, bulky, and how many BBs is takes to fill the thing up.

i have to agree with noname on this don't bother getting a hole new chamber just get some new stock to make the block out of. the fire rate of a normal inline half hole is crazy just trust me, you can barely here the individual shots. to compare mine sounds like a quieter version of the vulcan cannon (a huge mini gun that was used in A-10) considering it doesn't run off gunpowder

<a href="">heres a vid me and my friends took of it destroying a zucchini</a> excuse the camera man hes kinda stupid, but listen to it can you hear it? the fire rate is crazy and i don't even have a plunger (on a side not i have fixed it so i can empty the chamber without having to shake it)

Thnks guys, but remember that your gun is firing airsoft bb's. mines firing metal. Thats got to make some diference in performance somewhere....

Yeah, if you bother considering the ROF might change by 5 rps or some useless little number.

Hey im trying to find the correct self tapping screws on mcmaster so i can make things removable. ive found them but have suddenly realised i have no idea how screw diameter is measured. Mcmaster gives "inch thread size"s such as 4-20, 6-19, etc. What do these mean? Since these screws need a pilot hole perhaps one number is the pilot hole size or something?

Looked it up, does 4-20 mean
1/4", 20 threads per inch?
(assuming 4= 1/4)
seems impossible, but they don't use fractions, so maybe it would mean
4", 20 threads per inch...

Do you really need to buy screws on Mcmaster? Any old screws work perfectly alright for a strafer (although using the same type of screws do make it look a bit better ).Then again, why do you even need screws? It isn't really necessary unless you're mounting gizmos and whatnot on the gun.

Theyre some sort of special made-for-plastic screws that tap thier own hole, and thus can be removed and re-inserted many times without stripping anything. Screws are needed to hold vortex block and pvc rod infront of vortex block in.

I've never needed to, but whatever tickles your pickle.

Hey, how do you seal around the edges of pvc rod? i cant see any other way to stop bb's from passing the vortex block then by having the block lean against some pvc rod. The rod fights tightly, but is of course not airtight. I want to prevent any airloss other than out barrel, as it would lower power and efficiency. So far my best thought is like silocone caulk or something.

Get some room temperature vulcanization silicone sealant, glob some on the outside of the rod, put the rod in the pipe, and twist it.

i use hot glue for stuff like that, it will hold.

Noname, your stuff sound like glue or something that dries permanetely, i also have no idea where i would get something like that. (maybe vulcan lol) i was hoping to keep everything removable in the case of an emergency or failure. hot glue i could porbably break if i tried hard enough, but i question its holding ability. However with the tiny surface area it might hold the pressure...

Silicone sealant can be melted, cut away, it's flexible, whatever. It's easy to get rid of if you need to.

What kind of spring strength do i want? My current spring is 6 inches long and i believe it came from a sprinkler. It can hold up my foot of 1.5 pvc rod (1 pound?) with about and inch of defelection. I am worried that it is too strong. It can be fully compressed by hand.

If you think it's too strong, then it's probably too strong. You need to be able to compress it by hand with almost no effort at all if you want it to work properly.