SpudFiles

How about making some HEAT rounds?

Wouldn't quenching it make it hard and brittle again? Seems like you would want it built a bit like a samurai sword (just watched a show about them). Hard on the outside with a softer but tough inner core. They achieved this by forging two different types of steel together, but I think you may be able to achieve the same effect by being careful with your quenching process. Maybe just quickly quenching the front half of the round and then leaving it out to slow cool the rest and (hopefully) the inner part.

Although I'm not familiar with how fast HSS needs to be quenched so it could be that you are getting a softer inner core even with the full quenching.

Nice round you got there, looking forward to seeing what you can do with it.

Just to give some idea or the performance required, the Russian 9x39mm cartridge fires a 16 gram steel cored bullet at just over 900 feet per second and is claimed to penetrate 8mm thick steel plate at 100 metres.

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Just to give some idea or the performance required, the Russian 9x39mm cartridge fires a 16 gram steel cored bullet at just over 900 feet per second and is claimed to penetrate 8mm thick steel plate at 100 metres.

Thanks JSR, mine is 10mm at 14grms, maybe i will need to fire ar 6x. That should put me up around Mach 1.2 approx, 100 meters hey, my shot will be at around 3 meters so i reckon i have a reasonable chance.

Clide, thankyou for you compliment- i will research how to properly temper the round, i have watched the same program on the swords i think.

lol I figured the diameter out by comparing it to the rizla

If it doesn't work, Might I suggest moving to smaller diameter (say 5mm) with something like this, using aluminium tubing as a "tail"

Yes you may, however it would be a little harder for me to make.
I will subtitute aluminium if it has no real benefit though.
I'll make one just for you!

ShowNoMercy wrote:How about making some HEAT rounds?

If i could i would. However there are some better options

BTW, it was a Tally Ho paper 8) i use them to roll expensive cigarettes

It could be all steel with a drilled out tail, same effect - I suggested the aluminium tube to reduce the need for machining. Smaller diameter will obviously penetrate easier as there's less quantity of steel plate to displace, however you need a corresponding increase in projectile length to keep the sectional density up.

That is very true JSR.

Edit: for the steel i was thinking 4140.

expensive cigarettes

LOLOL

The ammo that I used was an 8" long piece of 1/2" rebar (not quite as advanced as your's, I know). It weighed about 250 grams, and was fired with a sabot from a 2" barrel at about 500 fps, from the burst disk cannon mentioned in my sig (which won't be posted for quite a while yet due to severe leaking issues and the lack of money to solve them).

I have a round sitting on the table in front of me that is designed to be fired from the burst disk gun that should work, but now the BD cannon is out of commission, so I won't be shooting through that plate steel any time soon.
The new round is a sharpened piece of 1/4" steel rod about 16" long, weighing 150 grams. Muzzle velocity should be slightly over 800 fps, and it will be fired at point blank range. I plan on tempering the rod before I shoot it.

Then why did you claim to have shot your round out of something "with quite a bit more power than your Hybrid"
BTW my projectile weighs 14 grams, your's 250 grams.
Mine is going a shat load faster than your's. (over Mach 1)

you know what would be an intresting thing to try? i know that an army-navy surplus store sells old surplus .50 BMG and .308 tungsten AP rounds, for about 3-6 bucks a pop. why not buy some of those rounds and design a sabot to fire them out of your hybrid? they would almost definetly achieve better penetration and possibly a higher velocity.

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Well bugger me, you just gone and fucked me all up.
Back to my dirt farm.....