SpudFiles

SPG wrote:I reckon that's a very good idea, and much better than wrapping it tightly in anything. I doubt PVC shards will accelerate that much in half an inch or so, so would be unlikely to break the outer pipe. What you do need though is to make sure that the air can get through it as efficiently as possible so the pressure is released.

I hade suggested this test recently but no one seems to have taken up the challenge

I know I know, sorry for not letting you know but my town did not approve of the test. Rather bluntly too. Sorry about that.

Do tell... loud, was it?

I didn't even get that far, I was going to do it in a huge parking lot the state owns around here and I was all ready to go and I was told by an officer of the law to pack up and leave. Apparently it was considered a controlled explosion, which I guess it was, and that it was forbidden inside town limits. So I need to find a new place.

Shame, it would have been nice to see some data, though I'm glad you didn't get into trouble. Any other takers?

No cannon can ever be completely safe, even metal ones. Eventually fatigue and wear will take hold in any material.

The simplest way to avoid injuries like the one that your father now has is to use safety gear. One pair of safety goggles would have prevented the injury and it would now be a minor issue.

Seriously, your most desperate need, and that of many people off this forum is to get some basic safety gear. Goggles and ear defenders - costs a small amount, but I bet your hearing and eyesight are worth a lot more to you than that.

turbohacker wrote:Baselines: Cannon is made of sched 40 PVC Pressure is 120PSI

That baseline is completely inadequate. It should be;

Cannon is made of sched 40 Pressure Rated PVC. Pressure is limited to 120PSI.

The second thing is that anyone shooting a firearm should be wearing eye protection. Doesn't matter if it is a $20 spud gun made of PVC or a $5000 hunting rifle.

jimmy101 wrote:...The second thing is that anyone shooting a firearm should be wearing eye protection. Doesn't matter if it is a $20 spud gun made of PVC or a $5000 hunting rifle.

Would that apply to an officer who has to "stop" a suspect?

hubb017 wrote:

jimmy101 wrote:...The second thing is that anyone shooting a firearm should be wearing eye protection. Doesn't matter if it is a $20 spud gun made of PVC or a $5000 hunting rifle.

Would that apply to an officer who has to "stop" a suspect?

They usually wear a pair of Aviators so that should be sufficient

MrCrowley wrote:

hubb017 wrote:

jimmy101 wrote:...The second thing is that anyone shooting a firearm should be wearing eye protection. Doesn't matter if it is a $20 spud gun made of PVC or a $5000 hunting rifle.

Would that apply to an officer who has to "stop" a suspect?

They usually wear a pair of Aviators so that should be sufficient

Even at night?

hubb017 wrote:

MrCrowley wrote:

hubb017 wrote:
Would that apply to an officer who has to "stop" a suspect?

They usually wear a pair of Aviators so that should be sufficient

Even at night?

Ah, point taken.

Hey, don't go confusing standard safety procedures with what is done in an emergency.

For example, ask any fighter pilot, ejecting from a fighter is extremely dangerous, it is just less dangerous than the alternative.

A cop might fire at a suspect without wearing eye protection, but visit the police target range, how many on the range are wearing eye protection?

the best thing is to sleve the chamber but leave some pipe out to attatch to triggering mech. uese some type of teflaun or heavy cotton. first put a layer of tight fabric then a lose layer then antother tight layer on top then (this can get repettative) add another loses layer. the first 3 layers will slow a leak or solw down any frags then the top layer will finally stop the frags completley. have fun be safe and good luck.

*5*STAR*GENERAL* wrote:the best thing is to sleve the chamber but leave some pipe out to attatch to triggering mech. uese some type of teflaun or heavy cotton. first put a layer of tight fabric then a lose layer then antother tight layer on top then (this can get repettative) add another loses layer. the first 3 layers will slow a leak or solw down any frags then the top layer will finally stop the frags completley. have fun be safe and good luck.

Second dumbass false information post on my count?
anyone else keeping count?

Stopping a fragging chamber isn't something that can usually be done with ghetto materials, as I have already stated. The most cost effective way to stop a chamber from fragging is to not build it out PVC, which is extremely prone to fragging on failure especially when it is full of compressed air, rather than pressurised water as is intended.

If you insist on using PVC, the most effective way to stop frags is to stop the chamber from fragmenting in the first place. A well done wrapping of several layers of carbon fiber, bonded together by resin afterwards could achieve this, as could a thick ABS outer sleave. Whatever you use would need to fit the OD of the chamber to a very close tolerance, i.e. not fabric or tape. Encasing the whole chamber in SCH 40 steel pipe could work too, but 6" SCH 40 steel isn't particularly cheap...

And as far as I can tell from looking at *5*STAR*GENERAL*'s posts, his dumbass false information post count is at 3 or 4, with his general dumbass post count being 9 or 10 (out of 11 total).