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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:04 pm
by DYI
I've built a full piston valve, but it only had .787" porting due to materials difficulties, and it wasn't really worth posting. It also leaked intermittently.
My valve of choice on pneumatics has always been a burst disk of some sort, because reliability and power generally trump ease of use for me (unless you can't already tell
)
If you could get a spring loaded ball valve to open fully in 2ms, it would be just as good as a piston valve. Until then, a piston valve wins.
Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:58 pm
by SpudBlaster15
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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:11 pm
by Mitchza89
Mate never let any guns on this site ever make you feel lousy. My 1st pneu was a bit of pipe and a bottle threaded onto a ball valve. As your experience in spudding increases, as will your craving to build bigger and better guns. When I first started, I was scared to go past 100psi, now I'm heading towards 400psi because I'm confident with my building ability, in time, you will be too
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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:21 pm
by Hotwired
Each to what they have
Exhaust piloted valves with full barrel flow are the best option for most people but pretty much any kind of valve that can be relied on to open quickly with significant flow is good enough.
I'm feeling like rebuilding my manual ballvalve cannon for plinking...
Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:28 pm
by DYI
Upon reading this, I visualized a ball valve actuated by a high explosive powered steel ram.
That's what I was thinking while I was writing it, actually. Of course, when the ram mechanism to actuate the valve contains more potential energy than the chamber itself, you have to start wondering about your methods...
Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:30 pm
by Mitchza89
Well you'll be set if your using I dunno.....maybe 1000+ psi