MtCrowley wrote:
Starting to get bored and thought I might make a hybrid to kick school of with a bang Smile
Anyway, just got a few Q's for the more knowledgeable.
I'm planning on shooting .177" metal BB's, projectiles around .3" and maybe 3/4" marble sized projectiles.
1) Chamber size, what sized chamber do you think I should go with for decent results. I was thinking maybe 9" of 1.25" steel pipe. Tad over-kill for the BB's but oh well.
2) Union, should I have multiple unions for each barrel, or just have one? If the latter option, what size should I make it?
3) I'll probably be using MAPP gas, would a spark plug with it's pre-set spark gap be fine for this? Or will I need to make the gap smaller?
4) Would tapping and epoxying a spark plug into the chamber be fine for mixes up to 6x? It's not going to be remote-ignition, so I just want to make sure.
5) I understand some have trouble getting burst disks to seal in their unions. I saw SB15's thread where he modded his, anyone else have their own way dealing with this problem?
Thanks, and yes SB15 it'll probably end up being similar to yours, the one many others have copied.
1.) That chamber size sounds fine. My First hybrid used a 5/4" SCH-80 seamless pipe nipple, and it provided plenty power for a 5' long ball-bearing barrel.
2.) I would suggest a 3/4" union. You can either get another union half for each barrel, or do what I do and just thread the different barrels into 3/4" bushings, and interchange with some wrenches and teflon tape.
3.) Most of the time, people don't worry about the addition of fuel and it's affect on the fuel mixtures density as compared to air. So, take the distance your ignition system can push a spark in open air, divide that by your planned mixture in atmospheres, (i.e. 4 for a 4x mix, 6 for a 6x mix), and that will be your maximum spark gap in that mixture, with a few percent error. If you're using a BBQ sparker, and a 6x max mix, going with about 1/2" gap in open air, that would give you a gap of 1/12" in compression. Most spark gaps are adjustable, so just get a gap setting tool and adjust to the correct width.
4.) I would tap it where a threaded coupler or cap overlapped the pipe, just because that's the way I done it on what I'm working on now. It may or may not be necessary, but that's also my suggestion.
Also, if you're copying SB15, why not use his Schrader spark plug idea? Or, if you want REALLY simple, PM me and I'll show you that way I interpretted "Schrader spark plug".
5.) The union thing is really problematic. DYI could help you all you want with this problem, because he helped me earlier this year trying to get a burst disk gun to seal.
Basically, what they did is grind down the tapered male sealing face on the "female" (expensive) half of the union, and installed a gasket. This prevented the foil disks from wrinkling, and let them seal at elevated pressures. I still have to do this to my cannon, which is the only thing I'm dreading.
Another REALLY simple way to solve it is to use rubber burst disks. Tire inner tube works great, but for elevated mixtures, you have to use multiple layers or you'll wind up with just a big balloon poking out your valve and rupturing on the breech. This seal regardless of union geometry.
6.) There is no #6. Good luck with building your hybrid, Crowley. What type of metering are you going to be using? SB15's air-through-the-meter setup is quite accurate, and would be the second system I would suggest, after a Gen. II system.