SpudFiles

I had to look up MFD to find out what on earth you meant, turns out its just uF

3000uF at 12V is possible in a pretty small package if you use double layer capacitor types instead of standard electrolytics.

Ok, well, For an airsoft Sniper Rifle(I no longer care for it to be semi-automatic) which do you all think would have better results:
A four-way ball valve(so i can load at the top)
or
a solenoid valve.

igpay wrote:Ok, well, For an airsoft Sniper Rifle(I no longer care for it to be semi-automatic) which do you all think would have better results:
A four-way ball valve(so i can load at the top)
or
a solenoid valve.

I would say a solenoid. You might want to google "RC warship gun". Basically air driven, semi-autos for BBs. (and they're remote controlled)

Or, take a look at this page, about half way down the page in the "selector" section.

I looked at the link and i googled RC warship gun but I don't really see why I need either of these things. I respect your opinion, but I might not have made it clear before that I want distance and accuracy over ROF and I don't care if my gun is one shot, or if it has easy loading capabilities like a magazine or a BB selector. so please, Can someone tell me which type of valve will give me distance and accuracy(if one valve is even better for those things than the other) or explain to me how what jimmy said could help me.
Thanks.
lol 33 spud bux!

For a given projectile, distance depends on muzzle velocity. For a given launcher, accuracy depends on projectile type. Nothing to do with valves.

A barrel sealing piston valve should be ideal for your intended application.

Accuracy DOES depend on ergonomy and thus the type of triggering and thus the valve.
Smacking open a ballvalve gets your aim off, while pulling a blowgun does less of that.

igpay wrote:... I want distance and accuracy over ROF and I don't care if my gun is one shot, or if it has easy loading capabilities like a magazine or a BB selector. so please, Can someone tell me which type of valve will give me distance and accuracy(if one valve is even better for those things than the other) or explain to me how what jimmy said could help me.
Thanks.

If the highlighted point is your major concern then the ONLY thing that matters is the barrel. Pretty much any type of valve will work, generic sprinkler, washing machine, home-rolled piston ... all will work fine.

No matter how good your valve is, or how much pressure you are using, to get decent accuracy you have to have a suitable barrel. It should be rifled and be specifically designed for your particular ammo. Once you get a suitable $$$ barrel you can fiddle with the valving. If you don't spend the $$$ on the barrel then everything else is a waste of time if you want distance and accuracy.

The barrel is important, but...
Assuming he is holding the gun in his hands, isnt the accuracy then also affected by the ergonomy of holding the gun and triggering it?
I think that if you want accuracy you should focus on that too, not just the barrel.
An easy one-finger triggering mechanism will surely improve your accuracy then when you slam open a ballvalve.

A momentary switch will allow the solenoid to work as fast as you can push and release the button, untill the batteries wear down.

A good straight build with matching barrel to ammo, and easy triggering will both play key rolls in what you want your finished sniper to turn out like.

psycix wrote:The barrel is important, but...
Assuming he is holding the gun in his hands, isnt the accuracy then also affected by the ergonomy of holding the gun and triggering it?
I think that if you want accuracy you should focus on that too, not just the barrel.
An easy one-finger triggering mechanism will surely improve your accuracy then when you slam open a ballvalve.

True, but a gun really has two accuracies; (1) fired from a solid mounting where you are looking only at the accuracy of the gun itself and (2) fired as it will be fired in actual use.

If you want accuracy at range you have to get the first type of accuracy before you can get the second. A barrel made out of, for example, a 3' piece of brake line is not going to be terribly accurate at say 100'. Doesn't matter what the ergonomics are, the barrel's inaccuracy can not be fixed by great ergonomics.

Once you get a suitable $$$ barrel you can fiddle with the valving.

Don't worry I have the barrel part covered. I plan on getting a 6.03 mm tightbore.