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Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:26 am
by Ragnarok
Brian the brain wrote:I don't really like the finger shape foregrip, but that's the beauty of it...
Well, I'm in two minds about it myself - it's comfortable, but it's not great to look at.
However, no doubt the appearance can be improved with practise.
You know as we as I do, I'd just hack off the stock ..ehm..stock and I would give the barrel a trim as well.
Well, this is a carbine anyway! The regular version is three inches longer.

But I'm not likely to hack the end off the barrel... I'm pretty sure that would void the warranty. :P
Actually, I've probably already voided the warranty, but I don't really care. I like to tinker with things, and so I will - I've already designed some parts I could make to help improve it's performance (things like a bearing in the piston weight to take out the firing torque), but taking a hacksaw to the muzzle seems a bit over the top.

I have got half a mind to make some changes to the length of the stock though.
If you feel up for it you could try decorative patterns.
I'll be trying it to spice up some of the flatter plain bits... but I'll draw it on first, then use my low power engraving tool.

If it doesn't work, there's no need for it to be copied onto the final version.

@Maxus: This is the guide I made to help with cutting the inlay for the action:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb12 ... G_0823.jpg
It's about 2cm thick, and takes a heck of a lot of the guess work out of it.

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:05 pm
by Brian the brain
Darn that's ingenius!

So KISS!

Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:14 pm
by Ragnarok
Brian the brain wrote:Darn that's ingenius!
So KISS!
I'm used to making my own tools and guides. I once had to make a 10mm spanner out of 2mm thick steel, because all my other spanners were too thick to fit in a given space.

So making an inlay guide just seemed logical to me.

Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:10 pm
by Ragnarok

Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:14 pm
by trollhameran
Do you know anyone who owns a band saw, or have access to a school or college workshop, if you do, it will take 10 minutes to cut out the rough shape of your stock.

Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:30 pm
by Ragnarok
trollhameran wrote:Do you know anyone who owns a band saw, or have access to a school or college workshop.
No... and it's the summer holidays, schools and colleges aren't open.
Anyway, I'm perfectly happy to do it manually.

Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:45 pm
by trollhameran
I have to admit, if it was available to me I would use the band saw, but I would be quite happy doing it all by hand if I had to, I kind of get used to it, I am a carpentry and joinery student, but i only have hand tools at home so I learn to manage with them.

Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:46 am
by MaxuS the 2nd
Ragnarok wrote:@Maxus: This is the guide I made to help with cutting the inlay for the action:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb12 ... G_0823.jpg
It's about 2cm thick, and takes a heck of a lot of the guess work out of it.
Ahh, why thankyou.

That will certainly help no-end.

Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:51 am
by Ragnarok
MaxuS the 2nd wrote:Ahh, why thank you.
That will certainly help no-end.
It's a very useful thing to have around - it's worth making a proper effort to get it right though.

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 4:03 pm
by Ragnarok
Update!
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb12 ... ATXHC3.jpg

Don't read a lot into the lines across it, but perhaps for the one across the base of the butt. That's a possible line for the lower edge of the stock, partly to cut back a little weight, but also to give it a more interesting profile.

The new stock is 2" shorter than the old one (so the rifle is only about 37" long, adding to it's carbine nature), which can be done comfortably by virtue of the changes to the grip shape - that means my left hand can therefore support the rifle further forwards, making the rifle appear less nose heavy.

A side effect of that means the scope needs to be moved forwards (into the next stop pin hole) to get the right eye relief, so it now obscures the loading port a hair, but that's no big deal.

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 4:18 pm
by Sticky_Tape
That looks really nice Rag good work.

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:19 pm
by nivekatoz
Nice stock.. If its a trial stock and you plan on making another ,I would invest in some quality wood. You could use oak or maple ,you can get that wood at any hardware store. Birds eye maple is great,if you can find it. Oak will finish up really nice also..Thats what I would use. If you cant find oak or maple or any other kinda wood in 2x4 you can glue up some smaller stock to build up thickness. When you are carving out the stock I find an angle grinder works good for large areas..As for tight corners, the dernal would work nicely. Files and sandpaper will also be needed..If you plan on going for a military look you could just use crap wood and just paint it. :salute:

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:19 pm
by ALIHISGREAT
that looks very comfortable, and it would look cool if you cut off the bottom section you marked out and the center section you marked out, then it would be similar-ish (not really :?: ) to the stock on an SV-98

edit: just found this whilst looking at rifles http://world.guns.ru/sniper/sn84-e.htm anyone else think its a bit wierd looking?

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:47 pm
by Ragnarok
nivekatoz wrote:Nice stock.. If its a trial stock and you plan on making another ,I would invest in some quality wood. <snip> If you plan on going for a military look you could just use crap wood and just paint it.
The plan is a nice wood, rather than just painting it. This is a rifle I'm planning on slowly modifying and customising in it's own unique way (firstly looks, but I've already got a couple of designs for improved internal parts), rather than going for any particular look.

Eventually, I want it to be something unique that feels, looks and shoots great, and is well worth keeping.
ALIHISGREAT wrote:It would look cool if you cut off the bottom section you marked out and the center section you marked out.
It's a plan I'm considering, but I'll have to redefine the centre section quite a bit smaller to make sure it's strong enough to survive knocks.

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 6:35 pm
by Sticky_Tape
I think this would look cool myself.