SpudFiles

I planned going on using both like Crowley did.

Double valve, one valve with the quick release for the air once its filled shut that valve and then the modified sprinkler at the end.

I plan on making one of Crowley's models but I'm wondering how u cut the deodorant can without it exploding

hold the button down until no more gas comes out

jmeyer1022 wrote:I planned going on using both like Crowley did.

Double valve, one valve with the quick release for the air once its filled shut that valve and then the modified sprinkler at the end.

I plan on making one of Crowley's models but I'm wondering how u cut the deodorant can without it exploding

Even if there is gas inside, you should be fine.

Deodorant cans do work well but you might have to make a few to get it right. I ended up making 3, I kept getting dents on the side before I could fill half of it with hot glue.

D_Hall wrote:...then you go with a powder gun.



Oh, wait... We're not supposed to talk about those

Ah, but we can talk about these ironic eh?

jmeyer1022 wrote:I'm looking for something between 225-300 yards is a piston a must for this? I plan on running at about 90-125 PSI

In my opinion, piston valves, although if thrown together will give disappointing results, are well worth the effort, as they will allow more power for the same pressure - or the same power for less pressure.

And that said, it's not hard with care to build a working piston valve first time.
I personally have built... 9 piston valves now I think, or it might be 10. The recent ones have been more time than effort - it takes a while to dremel the shoulder/stop out of a copper reducing tee.

Indeed, it takes time and some care, but even the more complex than is typical valve on HEAL went together without any fuss and worked first time without any adjustment (mostly because I knew the pitfalls I'd hit before and worked to avoid them.)

Although I stress I don't want to force you into doing it, a piston valve is the best compromise valve - best performance for least operational effort, at the cost of a little fiddliness during the build.

How would You get a 2 inch barrel that far the chamber without it being all over or not properly sealed

Do you mean:

How do you get the barrel to go inside the tee with it still being sealed?

Well you can do what jimmy101 said, or you can do what I did with mine:
(see diagram below)

In a basic barrel sealing piston valve, the barrel goes all the way through the tee and it is glued in place as jimmy101 described. In a piston valve where you want interchangeable barrels, you can do what I did:

Take a piece of pipe the same diameter as the barrel, cut it so when glued in the socket, the 'port' of the barrel, or where the piston seals, is about in the middle of the tee.

Glue a bushing the same diameter as the tee, to one end of this length of pipe. Then glue a female threaded adapter over the bushing. (Your barrel will have the male threaded adapter glued to the end of it.)

Apply glue and primer around the tee's socket and around the bushing exposed (see diagram), push fittings together twisting them a quarter turn. Hold together for 30 seconds. Okay, now the 'port' or the place the piston seals against the barrel, should be roughly in the middle of the tee. If you want a difference sized barrel, simply put a male threaded adapter the same diameter as the female one, on the end of it. Now you can have multiple barrels.

If you still need help understanding, just ask. Read over the instructable again if needed also.

Edit: Sorry about the writing on the diagram, i'll put up another one shortly.

I'm not looking for breech loading or interchangable barrels just a 2"inch sleeved barrel.

I plan on cutting an axe can

Right above the dented line using a saw. Filling it with glue then getting neoprene gaskets and drilling through the glue and can and putting on on each side then a bolt washer nut on to hold it all together.

My idea for a piston housing

2" female cleanout into 2" tee. So its snug together reaching the Lip on both.
On the male Cleanout Cap i'll put the bolt in to connect the valves and air intake.

I plan on doing exactly what I show on that diagram but boreing out the inside the reducer so the barrel will slide right into the tee will this work?
I'm trying to follow this part but I feel like a 4th grader (more of a hands on person)

Get two 50mm x 40mm PVC bushings and cut 1cm off the end of one of them. Cut a piece of 40mm PVC pipe 15cm long and solvent weld one of the bushings to the end and the other bushing just above the other. Then solvent weld the female socket adapter onto the bushing on the end of the pipe. One bushing should now be inside the adapter, and the other just above it.

So get 2x 2" to 1.5" bushing (reducer), Is the 1cm cut off necessary? cut a 1.5" piece about 6" long and solvent weld it to one of the bushings. What do you mean by "above".



Thats where I got from your description I'm not sure how your using the other bushing unless your using 1x 2" bushing and 1x 1.5" bushing rather than a 2x 2" to 1.5" reducer Please let me know.

I got it all except how you are getting the 1.5 segment glued in are you just glueing it in the upper lip part of the Tee??

I think I've figured this out, thanks. =)