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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:04 pm
by drac
Autozone? I got a farily good one (which I haven't gotten to work yet, as walrus put it "electronics hate me") there for 10 bucks with tax.
Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:02 am
by Shandora
why do you hlf to use a coil?
what does it do ?
Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 9:58 am
by Greihawk
the coil increases the voltage produced by the camera, therefore making the spark hotter, and to answer a earlier post i would suggest a momentary switch, as the power has to be stopped for it to leave the coil, im not to sure, but if you leave it on, there is a chance that the camera could bleed enough power into it and prevent it from firing.
Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 3:17 pm
by beebs111
ok thx drac theres an auto zone within biking distance of my house. ill go get 1 there
EDIT: ok thanks ill keep that in mind(when i return it)
Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 3:55 pm
by drac
Beebs, make sure it's a cylindrical one. The newer ones (box kind) don't work well to my knowledge.
Greihwak, it does make the spark hotter, but longer also. Good for multiple spark gaps, but the shock is not pretty.
Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:18 pm
by deathtodeer666
im lost I have all the parts and have made many camera flash igniters but idont get how to wire the ignition points. I know that the reflector wire is the trigger and i dont see how it could work without it
has any one made this?
do you know what im talking about ?
is michael jackon really black?
will a 12 volt coil run off 1.5 volts?
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:32 am
by deathtodeer666
here I tried it and it wont work maybe if i had a dia gram of the spark connect I followed the plan as exactly as I could, all it did was make a buzzing/whine noise for like 3 minetes and would not fire.
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 10:53 am
by Atlantis
You guys really over complicated this. Soder wires from the points where the flash WAS connected, ignore the third middle wire completely. Putting the battery in the camera greatly simplifies things. Run one wire to a push button switch (doorbell switch works) then to the screws (on mine the screws ARE touching each other, which gets rid of adjusting them), out the other screw and back to the camera. Wire these parts.
1st Wire...Camera-Switch-Screw
2nd Wire...Camera-Other screw.
For multiple capacitors, rip 1 capacitor out and attach it to the other capacitor in series. If you don't know anything about electronics, or arm numbing shocks, don't try this.
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 5:40 pm
by imhotep
Questions about the circuit in the camera
Is it series or parallel?
Is the trigger switch located at the low-voltage or high-voltage end of the coil? In other words, does the trigger interupt current flowing TO the coil from the capacitor, or current flowing FROM the coil to the screws?
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:02 pm
by Urban Ninja
This website has a page which takes you step by step on how to dismantle, wire and prepare. It really clears things up

. You should be able to figure out the rest.
http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/181/48/.
Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:01 am
by PotatoPirate
What's a project box and where can you get them.
Also does the camera come with everything you need but the wires and project box.
Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:20 am
by nicholai
PotatoPirate wrote:What's a project box and where can you get them.
Also does the camera come with everything you need but the wires and project box.
a project box is a simple little electrical enclosure you can buy at radio shack for like $3, its a clean alternative to sloppy looking ignitions housed in one box