SpudFiles

MountainousDew wrote:

Technician1002 wrote:MountainousDew is the coolest guy in the world!

Thank you...

@Tollbooth: Grease your pipe as much as you can before you stick it in the hole of the other pipe and use a lot of force to really get it in there.

Edit: Tech, wouldn't stretching the pipe like you did reduce the wall thickness and possibly increase the probability of a failure to occur?

Not when you insert the reducer and make it double thick.

Actually i think Mr. Dew is on to something. By heating and bending pipe like that, you mess up the chemical structure. I wouldn't do that for a chamber. No matter how much better it looks.

Although it would seem safe enough because you have the extra layer of pipe, the pipe is more likely to crack right in front of the inserted bushing.

Sorry Tech, but it would be much safer if you simply bought the 6 inch couplings.

There is a safer way to do something like that though. Neospud used 2 inch sch80 pipe in this cannon, allowing him to use 1 and 1/2 inch bushing in a similar way.
http://www.neospud.com/cannonpages/minipiston.html

why are you talking about brass pipe, sch80 is pvc

sand paper the pipe . its not easy but should help
and grease it and use some power too , help from your brother will do the job

covey12 wrote:why are you talking about brass pipe, sch80 is pvc

Where do you see brass?
I'm pretty sure it doesn't mention brass anywhere...
Can some one shed some light on this conundrum?!

ya I'm lost too...

anyway, back on topic. Other than putting some muscle into it, there isn't a lot we can help with.

far_cry wrote:sand paper the pipe . its not easy but should help
and grease it and use some power too , help from your brother will do the job

Or buy a hone. It will take ages with sandpaper but chuck it in a wood lathe (or metal if you happen to have one big enough) or use a belt sander.

They were talking about brass (and steel) threaded pipes (allthread) as a means of reduction to apply force with little shock to the pipes.

TollBooth wrote:Alright i tried to sleeve SDR21 1.5 into SCH 80 2" trying to make a golf ball barrel. Did not get to far... is there a special way to go about doing this?

Absolutely not. I've had some SDR21 that fit a little tighter than others in sched 80 but generally only hand fitting or some light to medium taps with a hammer is all that's required. Anything more than that makes me skeptical of the pipe you're using.

"C"s need only to be cut when sleeving 2" sched 40 inside 2" sched 40.

DOesn't sleeving cause the barrel to be so heavy that cam lock burst disk can't support the weight of the barrel?