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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:41 am
by elitesniper
Very cool!

A small muzzle break would defantely up the looks too!
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:54 am
by c11man
this should have bee a tee piston valve or a toolie valve so you can have breach loading and not waste all the power with the dead space
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:56 am
by twizi
he could use 8mm bead or bb that roll down from the breech and hit the pistion
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:14 pm
by chinnerz
elitesniper wrote:Very cool!

A small muzzle break would defantely up the looks too!
i agree it would look good, but i think i have made my mind up, im going to widen the barrel and include a internal silencer (although there is no real point because it is super quiet as it is) just as JSR recommended.
Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:14 am
by chinnerz
i built this thing to come apart, this is like an exploded view.

By
chinnerz2, shot with
5800 Xpres at 2010-01-16
also a good opportunity to test out the camera on my new phone

Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:15 am
by john bunsenburner
Why not improve the stock a bit?
The thumb hole makes holding it with your hands alright but, since it is shoulder fired, the butt makes a difference too, a strait butt is worse than one that is carved to a concave shape to accomodate your shoulder. A bit of work with a file and then sanding it smooth and repainting the end would do the trick.
(don't bother with this if the scope is too high to look through when the gun rests against your shoulder)
Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:14 am
by chinnerz
yeah the but is actually cut at a 80* angle and smoothed and rounded, i think its quite nice, but thanks for the suggestion
i am probably going to try and stay away from sanding it right now, because im in yr 12 and i don’t think i will have any time to paint it for 2 months or so and i don’t think i will ever "get around" to it,
i was thinking of making a plate which the user simply bolts on to the back, said plate will be soft, maybe consisting of, or, being made out of rubber.
Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 4:53 am
by cfb_rolley
i've been following this one since you started asking about designs for the stock, and i have to say it's turned out pretty damn nice. well done!
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 3:27 am
by chinnerz
cfb_rolley wrote:i've been following this one since you started asking about designs for the stock, and i have to say it's turned out pretty damn nice. well done!
thanks:P
*updates*
i had a bit of a leak form the Schrader valve, in fact i have been having many! and i decided that i had finally had enough!, i cut the rubber off the valve, i had a hose connector lying around, i cut off one end and drilled a hole in it. using a heat gun (a cheapie) i soldered the valve to the connector and let it tap a nice thread into the 25mm plug at the back, i should have done it this way, aka the right way, to begin with
i have been having a hard time coming up with a way to attach a scope on to the rifle, i ended up making a mount thinking it would be easier to attach the mount to the rifle... i was wrong. finally i ended up getting some thin wire, wrapping it around then getting some tape and masking it. it looks super ugly, and isn’t supper effective... i will find a way some day
hehehe since typing all this i have noticed i have a metal wire sticking out of my index finger.... so umm, i guess ill have to tend to that
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:27 am
by john bunsenburner
Haha yes the curse of the shrader....I had a thread on threading them, now the easiest thing would be if you could find a M7.7 tap, or make one(LATHE FTW) and thread the babe by the threads on it already. Beyond that its solder(remove the inner core or you will fry your shrader which is a PITA) or epoxy, or finding alternatives(Quick connect + check valve).
As for the scope, can't you just glue the rails on?
I like this gun, nice job mate!
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 4:21 am
by chinnerz
As for the scope, can't you just glue the rails on?
what glue would be best?
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 4:28 am
by john bunsenburner
The sticky type
I would use a two part transparent epoxy type, which should be jell like not too runny. I would use a two part modeling glue that is good for up to 800psi.
Or a contact glue, just make sure it is relatively strong, doesn't run too much and doesn't have an awful colour.
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:38 pm
by chinnerz
thanks for the ideas, i will get around to trying some of them when i have some time......
sigh 1st day of school and5 assignments.
Its not fair gawd damn it!
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:03 pm
by chinnerz
video:
it failed btw...
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:27 pm
by stealthy kitten
i love it is it a piston