SpudFiles

I am pissed !!!! The stungun couldn't take the current of the airsoft battery and broke!!! It melted inside the component that is filled with epoxy. I should have soldered a resistor. So....i'm back with no ignition! Darn it , I had it right at 6x and fired each time! So until i get and ignition back, no hybrid for me

Was the voltage of the airsoft battery the same as the stungun's regular battery? The load (stungun in this case) is what determines how much current actually flows, not the current capacity of the battery itself.

Unless of course if you ran up on a stungun design that actually uses the internal resistance of the battery as a feature...built in current limiting device.....

It used to run on three 3V lithium batteries, but they were dead two days after I replaced 'em, being 7 euros (roughly 9 dollars) each, I figured i'd better find a way to substancially diminish the economical tsunami in my wallet. So I took my 9,6 volts 3,5 A battery, soldered a battery connector to the stungun (so that I could recharge the batt when it was empty). The problem is that it produces too much curretn compared to the 3 lithium ones.
The stungun would become hot very quickly, and i noticed that the plastic was molten inside.
What brand of stungun is good? because the one I bought was 39 euros, 350,000 V, but here was 60,000 one at 59 euros.... I thought i'd just take the biggest spark. Guess i was wrong.
Now i guess i'll have to buy another one or try the camera flash + ignition coil method.

I think any stun gun that takes a straight up 9 volt battery will handle your battery pack. Mine is 100,000 volts, and the battery hangs in there for a bunch of test. I played and played before the akaline (Duracell) went dead.

The camera flash is a pretty good idea because if you get you spark gap just right SNAP they give a hell of a crack. Ultimatespudguns has a ignition module for sale I think it's 39 us dollars thats 60,000 or 80,000 volts I think don't qoute me, look it up if you want to know for sure.

Thanks jrrdw , at the moment I just don't have even 39 euros. There is one alternative : a homemade step-up transformer hooked-up to a push switch. I found a cheap way to buy extremely fine copper wire : 3euros per 27 meters! it's like half a millimeter in diameter. I could do like 10,000 turns for the secondary and one for the primary, at 9,6 volts input i'd get approximately 96,000 volts (and since the current is 3,5 amps, it'd be down to 3,5 mA . )

Sounds like the stungun design is dependant on the internal resistance of the small batteries. Again. a high current "capable" source doesn't feed high current unless a load draws it.

You could do what I did with Trip Thunder. Connect a 9v 7809 regulator inline to a 14.4 volt source. I knew 14.4v would eventually burn out a 9v stungun.

http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6894 ... 0smap5.jpg
http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/1845 ... 3smug6.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6175/tri ... ticfq4.jpg

Just trigger the regulator with 12 or more volts and you will get steady 9v powering the stungun. I keep the trigger on the stungun permanently activated with strong rubberbands.

Hey there! I've changed the ignition to a small piezo-electric igniter from a lighter. It works right at 6-7x, has some little ignition problems at 8x. (my spark gap is 0.3 mm.

Ok here was the setup :
Burst Disc: Polyethylene from a 5liter water jug, small cross cut with exacto knife to allow burst at ~45 bars.

Projectiles:
3 grams ogival lead bullet at 7x from 1 meter 8 mm ID barrel.
10 grams hornady .44 roundball saboted at 7x from 45cm long 16mm barrel.


Here are the pics. (small projectile hit bottom left, bigger one did the big dent upper right. )

New Damage!

Projectile
8mm stainless-steel arrow-head from a 8mm ID , 1 meter long barrel.

mix
8x
Damage








Yes, it went through a fire extinguisher. Needless to say, there were sparks. I am surprised it did go through, I thought it would only go one side. Plus, the angle of the exit hole suggests the arrow head kept going straight after the first side. I don't know the velocity estimation, i'll run it through HGDT and post an edit....

What do you think?

hmm pretty nice but you've wasted a FE

I could not do anything with it. It lacks the top part. Plus it's the low pressure water + additives type. I'd have kept it, had it been a CO2 one
I'm fixing a little ignition problem again...

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HGDT gave a 370 m/s estimation...for this projectile. This explains the complete penetration...

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It's about 3 grams! So, I bet 205 joules can be an estimate of the muzzle energy. It really isn't the best, as I use little plastic caps as sabots (they weight 1 gram), they are 16mm wide, and HGDT predicts a velocity above 640 m/s (for almost 205 joules) , I don't know the accuracy about that number, what I do notice though, is that:
1) It is much louder with a cap, than dry firing.
2) It takes a massive hammer impact (i mean really hard) to flatten the cap as much as a shot 7 feet from a steel plate.
3) At point blank, it leaves a bend on the FE on impact.

Bloody good performance! 0.3mm spark gap with a piezo, you say, hmmm...