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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:02 pm
by chinnerz
when using image shack, use BB code, or the forum code type 1. what you posed was a image shack library (i think) and not a direct link to a picture.
btw those are thumb nails and not the actual picture... took too long to load on my pc
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:04 pm
by saefroch
Explain in less technical terms please? What buttons to press etc?
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:18 pm
by chinnerz
ahh....
all good?
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:41 pm
by saefroch
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:13 pm
by chinnerz
hot glue??
well theres your problem...
also, do you mind using less mega pixels, or resizing you pictures before you upload them?? coz that took a long time to load for me...
first step, take the valve out
step 2:, take out all the hot glue (do not use heat to get it out, warm water if you must)
step 3: get a knife which you dont care about, or a razor and cut all the rubber off, it is brass under that rubber.
step 4: sand off all the adhesive left over on the valve, and sand down that end cap
step 5a (if the hole is 'too' big): use epoxy and afix you valve in place (im not an expert on epoxy, may need to get someones help on that 1)
step5b: (if the hole is ok-ish): use solder or epoxy to afix your valve in place
hot glue will only seal some times, and it dosent like being pushed alot. i have used to to attach my barrel to a hard plastic plug/threaded end cap.
i think the issue is hot glue and rubber... but im not sure
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:58 am
by saefroch
Thanks for the tips, instructions, and demeaning. Seriously, I appreciate negative criticism.
I do appreciate the feedback, but one of the other things that I wanted to make clear is that this design is functioning perfectly well, no audible or otherwise detectable leaks from this area of the gun. I am however losing pressure somewhere on the device, so it'll be getting some new Teflon tape.
The hot glue isn't getting 'pushed', per se, pressure is certainly getting exerted on it, but since the entire internals of that bushing and adapter are filled with the stuff, it's got nowhere to go because of the shape of the inside. It would have to significantly deform and work its way past the threads on the bushing and the diameter change inside the adapter and between the adapter and the bushing.
I don't mean to rant or defend my ghetto-esque design, I just insist on understanding.
I will take the input into consideration. Is it possible to maybe add another bushing or two and heat up solder so that its viscosity drops very low, and maybe solder a schrader valve to the inside of a bushing or adapter, so that it is soldered to threads, not a small, smooth surface like a hole drilled in an end cap? The extra adhesion from the threads on the bushing is probably all that's keeping that thing together, so maybe I could also take advantage of that at high pressures by soldering a stripped schrader to a bushing. And another thought on that, Taking the rubber off the schrader attachment would probably decrease the force that the air pressure can exert on the valve attachment system, by decreasing surface area available, correct me if I'm wrong.
Pics are being fixed now. Sorry, my camera takes pics at 4 megapixels, and I forgot to resize them. They were actually causing a bit of lag for me, but not much since I run a pretty good system.