SpudFiles

JSR pinching things from your workplace and "borrowing" from friends doesn't count sorry

alright let me rephrase that:
less than $50 for a medium bore hybrid? I think that's awesome.

Although, i think what really brings up the price of a hybrid is the metering system.

And being "resourceful" and pinching things from the lab is reasonable, there's a house under construction across the street from me and i'll admit i've helped myself to the scrap pile a few times

lol i guy i know built his hole house on his farm from left over from other houses hes built.

In regards to the barrel, if I had an old shotgun barrel around, I'd be using it for a project which puts 300 grams of lead downrange every second. I appreciate the input though.

Once I get off my rear end and finish it, fueling will be a large syringe (horse arse type), that will suffice for up to 10X mixes. That should only cost $2.

I spent another $5 on a 1/4 brass plug and 1/4 to 1/2 bushing for the shrader.

Would one trust a soldered joint holding a shrader, it's a hollow plug filled with solder?

TwitchTheAussie wrote:JSR pinching things from your workplace and "borrowing" from friends doesn't count sorry

Fine, the stainless steel sections were offcuts from work, as were most of the threaded fittings, but still

fueling will be a large syringe (horse arse type)

Technically it's combustible gas under pressure, so a natural hybrid mix

If you have access to a tap set, experiment a little, schraeder valves from bike tubes take well to a 1/4-28 NF thread in my experience:


Soldering it should be fine, just make sure the hole is a tight fit, and remove your valve core so you don't melt it

linuxexorcist wrote:Soldering it should be fine, just make sure the hole is a tight fit, and remove your valve core so you don't melt it

Same with proper epoxy, proven up to at least 28x

I looked into tapping, I only had access to metric tap & die set which didn't have the appropriate size.

I drilled the hole 0.5mm too small then turned down the shrader in a drillpress with steel wool.

I'm revising what mix I'll run it at, 10X is looking good at the moment.

Also I used epoxy in the spark gap, it was going to be the shrader but it leaked, now it seals perfectly.

Zeus wrote:
I drilled the hole 0.5mm too small then turned down the shrader in a drillpress with steel wool.

How many hours did you spend doing that? Next time, I recommend a file or coarse sandpaper.

0.5mm of brass goes away fairly quickly at high speeds, I was holding the steel wool on the shrader with pliers so it ground down quite fast.

I did it initially to remove the rubber completely so the solder took properly but it worked well so I kept at it.

what are you using as a spark plug, if you go out and buy a NGK CR10EK spark plug(used in dirt bikes) the threads on it fit perfectly with a 1/8'' npt tap.

I'll look for those, it should fit into a 1/4 to 1/8 bushing and seal better than my other options.

Just need a 1/4 ball valve so I can get rid of the big mofo 1/2 I'm using for testing.