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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:21 pm
by mark.f
Not better tools, just PVC glue and primer instead of (more expensive!) epoxy.
Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:35 pm
by saefroch
Apologies. I now see you suggested that the screws were the source of the leaks.
Unless you're using a PVC glue type I'm not familiar with, you're solvent-welding the PVC. This results in an area that is thicker and stronger than the rest of the pipe.
Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:38 pm
by warhead052
No problem sae. Mark, I really do need better tools, or at least a corded drill...
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:14 am
by Crna Legija
id save up and get a really good cordless drill. i have a Dewalt DC988KC-XE, its a beast comes with 3 batterys each one lasts a day most of the time. full charges in about 2hr and its got plenty off power. also come with a the heavy duty steel chuck. its $500 aus but its defiantly worth it.
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:39 am
by mark.f
I have your basic 3/8" keyed-chuck corded drill. Plenty of torque for drilling through steel pipe and you don't have to worry as much about your bit slipping around in the chuck as you do with cheaper keyless chucks like you find on some cordless drills.
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:43 pm
by warhead052
I need a corded with alot of torque and ajustable speed, or a drill press. Plus I need a air compressor rather than a bike pump...
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:07 pm
by mark.f
If you've got a good choice between the corded drill and the drill press... get both.
Both have their many uses.
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:58 pm
by warhead052
Too true. My grandfather has a drill press I could use, but I am not sure if he would let me.... EDIT, I discarded the tanks (it was old pvc anyways...) and I rebuilt another... The cement has dried and has no leaks what so ever, and I applyed epoxy over it because I felt double reinforcement was better than 1 layer.
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:25 pm
by Gun Freak
Doesn't sound like you gave it much cure time
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:12 pm
by clemsonguy1125
My glue take 2 hrs to cure according to the can.
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:52 pm
by Gun Freak
Same here but I always give it at least a day...
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:08 pm
by clemsonguy1125
I give it two hours before 30 psi, then 1 day before any more.
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 9:06 pm
by warhead052
Mine is 1 hour... Really good glue too,
. I usually put it to 20 psi for now, and after a day or two send it up to past 50.
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:18 am
by warhead052
Well, I figured I would let you guys know... I got a almost brand new empty freeon tank! Very heavy duty... My dad ran by an old friend who owns a auto shop juts around the corner and asking if he had any thing and he said that he had no use for the tank and it was too heavy to recycle (dont see how when they simply melt it down...). High pressure tank, about 300 - 600 psi or something close to that. It came off a freeon recovery unit for a car, which means it pulled the freeon that was charged up. Its built to last and hold pressure! No need for my crappy pvc air tank anymore...
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:12 pm
by Technician1002
Just a quick note on the Freon Recovery tanks. Because they are refillable as opposed to the disposable tanks, they are much heavier.
If you intend to do any welding on it, you will find it has lots of oil residue. Watch for build up of explosive oil fumes if welding. Either fill the tank with water first or run a constant inert gas in the tank to keep Oxygen out. Argon, Nitrogen, or CO2 work for the purge gas. Don't use compressed air.
The tank may have been disposed of due to the 3 year recertification required. Check the manufacture date. Is it older than 3 years? If it is older than 3 years, does it have a newer date stamped in the metal near the valve? Is that date older than 3 years?
If the tank is expired, don't plan on exceeding 300 PSI with it. If you weld on it, limit is 1/2ed.