Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:56 am
Generally you need about one second or so worth of spray. 10 seconds is WAY too much.
Your Spud Cannon Community
https://www.spudfiles.com/
Ok, I will try to spray the right quantity of fuel next time.saefroch wrote: That usually indicates a fueling problem.
Ok, well, I've tried to burn the hairsprai on the floor with the sparks and it worked.saefroch wrote: I've attempted to used a very large spray 'n' pray before, and I can tell you that fueling correctly is incredibly difficult to get the hang of. So long as your ignition source is producing a spark at all under atmospheric conditions, it should function perfectly well for this build.
Ok, definitely a fuel problem.saefroch wrote: I suggest syringe fueling, JSR's favourite method. It really works, and is quite simple. You may also be having an issue with mixing. What warhead052 talks about with allowing air to get into the chamber isn't really that, it's allowing the gases to diffuse together and become a uniform mix. If the mix isn't uniform, you may end up with a region of gas around the spark that isn't combustible.
Distance ignition is just for that. I don't want to blow up with the potatoes :-/saefroch wrote: If there are holes in the chamber, it will reduce performance, but you will still be able to ignite a combustible mix. However, be aware that if there are any holes a jet of very hot gas will shoot out during ignition, and can burn through duct tape, hair, and clothes.
I've double checked, and the spray is extremely flammableTechnician1002 wrote:Very carefully check if the hairspray is flammable. I don't recommend holding the lighter in your hand. If you manage to spray your hand it could be very bad.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8BfP6zrUBY
Some hairspray is more water and less butane or propane.
Ok, understood... but, yes, at the bottom od the chamber there's a glued and threaded cap. I cannot open it, but just because when it wasn't glued it allowed air to escape, so I have to glue it. The initial idea was to spray the fuel through the cap. So, the problem is always airTechnician1002 wrote:In re-examining the photos, does the chamber have a clean out cap? The breech looks too short to contain a threaded and glued ends. Lack of fresh air between shots will prevent igniton.
You need a way to open the chamber wide open for full venting of spent gas and replacing it with all fresh air.
well, I do not know exactly aht bell reducers are, but looking through the internet doesn't sound like something I used...warhead052 wrote:Oh I just realized this. Dont use bell reducers because they are weak. They cant handle pressure the way bushings do, just a tip! I dont know if they work better in combustions, or if they are safer, but I know I wont use them unless its for decorations.
so it's a plastic piece... no, I went to the shop, I ask for reducer and they gave me this. sorry, I'm totally inexpert. which is the best one?warhead052 wrote:Its the cone shaped reducer you have on there. I dont know if its for the mechanics or for looks, but they can be dangerous.
Plenty of people have used DWV bell reducers in combustion launchers. I agree it's nice to err on the side of caution and use pressure rated fittings, but DWV fittings are usually an accepted construction material for even advanced combustions.warhead052 wrote:Oh I just realized this. Dont use bell reducers because they are weak. They cant handle pressure the way bushings do, just a tip! I dont know if they work better in combustions, or if they are safer, but I know I wont use them unless its for decorations.