Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 10:50 pm
Flint sparkers are definitely inferior. Electronic ignition is much more controlled and produces higher temperatures.
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I don't think there is any data to support electronic ignition producing higher temperatures. Do you mean spark temperature or combustion temperature? Spark temp is largely irrelevant, you just need roughly 0.5mJ in a sufficiently small volume to ignite 1x propane in air. Putting in a spark with 100 times that amount of energy doesn't significantly change things. A spark is a spark. Besides, I would WAG that a flint sparker actually releases more energy than does a typical piezo sparker.saefroch wrote:Flint sparkers are definitely inferior. Electronic ignition is much more controlled and produces higher temperatures.
Well apparently, or, as usual, you were doing something wrong yet again. I have had the same bbq ignitor in the first combustion I ever made, and it still works after hundreds of shots and pounds of potatoes!! 8) 8)jsefcik wrote:mattyzip77 wrote:try a flint sparker from a camping lantern, like 4 bucks at walmart, but a grill ignitor is 100 times better and should work!!!
matt i beg to defer, i think the flint sparker is better, i went through lots of the bbq igniters and still love my flint sparkers
+1, iv never had a piezoelectric igniter fail in any application from spudguns to BBQ they seam to last for evermattyzip77 wrote:
Well apparently, or, as usual, you were doing something wrong yet again. I have had the same bbq ignitor in the first combustion I ever made, and it still works after hundreds of shots and pounds of potatoes!! 8) 8)
my last one only lasted for like 100 clicks+1, iv never had a piezoelectric igniter fail in any application from spudguns to BBQ they seam to last for ever
Try: http://ultimatespudgun.com/30kv-igniter-p-219.htmlKdmann64 wrote:Yeah my spark sucks, it's jumping all around and not going the way it is supposed to
those electrodes are crazy expensive, its cheaper just to use bolts and on the outside use ring terminals with spade connectors to connect to the stun and and just solder on qucik connects to go to stungunjrrdw wrote:Try: http://ultimatespudgun.com/30kv-igniter-p-219.htmlKdmann64 wrote:Yeah my spark sucks, it's jumping all around and not going the way it is supposed to
or
http://ultimatespudgun.com/electrodes-c ... p-273.html
copper rod? or may be gold leaf on bolts or even carbon electrodesjrrdw wrote:Try: http://ultimatespudgun.com/30kv-igniter-p-219.htmlKdmann64 wrote:Yeah my spark sucks, it's jumping all around and not going the way it is supposed to
or
http://ultimatespudgun.com/electrodes-c ... p-273.html
Nicely done. Only one problem. Temperature isn't the key quantity, energy is. You need ~0.5mJ in a sufficiently small volume for ignition. Whether that energy is present as a high temperature in a very small mass (plasma in air), or a much lower temperature in a much higher mass (small shard of iron heated to incandescence) ...saefroch wrote:I was just thinking about plasma versus burning metals, but I suppose in a highly localized environment they could definitely produce the same temperature at the metal-oxygen interface.
Isn't "would WAG" redundant? Unless I found the wrong definition...
EDIT: I shall now attempt to answer the issue of flint sparks vs electrical arc with SCIENCE!
<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub>mv<sup>2</sup>=<sup>3</sup>/<sub>2</sub>k<sub>b</sub>T
T=(<sup>2</sup>/<sub>3</sub>K<sub>e</sub>)/k<sub>b</sub>
Onlineconversion.com says that 14.534eV, the first ionization potential of Nitrogen is 2.3286*10<sup>-18</sup>J
T=(<sup>1</sup>/<sub>3</sub>)(2.3286*10<sup>-18</sup>)/1.3806503*10<sup>-23</sup>
Giving me an almost unreasonable result of a whopping 56,220.K.
White black body radiation is about 7,000K.
$21.99 + shipping is cheep for a 30Kv spark circuit. No more misfires...those electrodes are crazy expensive