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Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:51 pm
by Extrusion
Bipedal wrote:Got the RainBird JTV-100 Jar top valve, works perfectly (minus honking), problem solved. Thanks muchly.
To solve the honking just mod it modding is really easy so you shouldnt have a problem doing that.
Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:15 pm
by Bipedal
I really really don't want to mod it though. Electric firing is sexy. The honking however, isn't. From what I can tell it's because the pilot valve that the solenoid opens is so small. I'll try to figure something out about it. But I'd really like to keep it electric. I've lubed it but that does nothing. any suggestions? Err, I yanked out the little white thing on the diaphragm like you said because it still took a second or two to close the valve... And now air just hisses out when I open it. ???
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:31 pm
by Extrusion
Try putting the white thing back it honks because the diaphram is vibrating only way to really solve it it to mod it and btw modding it makes it let air out 10 times faster not sure if 10times is the true number but spudtech's guide on modding says 10 times faster so youll get alot more power out of it and it like a trigger if you use a blow gun.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:41 pm
by Bipedal
Yeah I decided i can't do the honking for much longer. Also yeah I put the white thing back in and it's back to working. I've got everything I need but some epoxy.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:51 pm
by Pete Zaria
You could use a smaller (half-inch maybe?) sprinkler valve to pilot your 1" valve... That way you could trigger the pilot valve electrically, and have a pneumatically triggered main valve. It'd be a bit pricy, but you'd get the best of both worlds.
Peace,
Pete Zaria.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:12 pm
by SpudStuff
They don't make 1/2" sprinkler valves but you could get a solonoid valve from
www.mcmaster.com.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:56 pm
by Tyro
that sound cool.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:33 pm
by SpudStuff
That was useless...
1. What sounds cool?
2. Spell Check.
The most cost effective solution for the venting would be using a high flow blowgun or a 1/4" ball valve. If all else fails you can use another 3/4" valve epoxied to the top.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:39 pm
by zerodivide
What's the stamp on your Orbit Watermaster? The last few I got from Home Depot had poorly cleaned parts on the seal face. These were six digit 5xxxxx stamps. I've had valves from 3 different states (south, midwest) and they were the same. The trick was to open the valve and clean out the burrs with a boxcutter. I had a thread with pictures here somewhere.
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... 872逈
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=26&
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... 159贿

The inner rim of that white portion shouldn't have that excess molded plastic. This one is pretty bad, so it was returned. Some of the ones I got from the midwest were better than from the south. They had just a few burrs which were easily scraped off with a box cutter. After that they sealed fine.
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:46 pm
by Bipedal
Lol read my last few posts. I exchanged it for a JTV-100 jar top waterbird. This thing is awesome. It's smaller profile, and there's no screws. It's gonna be uber easy to mod. (Once I get epoxy and a set of taps from a friend I'll do just that.)
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:50 pm
by zerodivide
Ah, problem solved then. You have any pics of the JTV-100?
Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:01 pm
by SpudStuff
You don't need the taps, just drill a 1/2" hole and thread the nipple in. But if you have the taps use them.
Here is a tutorial on that valve.
Thing-a-ma-jig
Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 6:31 am
by Bipedal
Ah, then i'll just drill the hole and save myself alot of asking and waiting. Thanks for the help, we'll see how it goes after i get some epoxy.