Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:20 pm
it's all a matter of preparation - you have to roughen up the surfaces in order to ensure proper adhesion, by doing this I've made epoxy connections that can take in excess of 400 psi without failure.
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Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:24 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:37 pm
Well, there are no threaded sections in my mini-piston design:
It's made purely of epoxy-to-PVC connections and I regularly take it 400 psi and beyond, never had a failure.
It's made purely of epoxy-to-PVC connections and I regularly take it 400 psi and beyond, never had a failure.
Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:28 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:58 pm
It doesn't depend on the material in this case but the structure Epoxy does not naturally stick well to PVC, indeed I can make an epoxy piston by filling a section of smooth PVC with epoxy then tapping it out with a hammer. A PET bottle's walls are thin and flimsy, but if there were thick like PVC pipe (like the will be when the material is at its preform stage it's just as easy and effective to glue if the surfaces are properly roughened.
Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:06 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 4:07 pm
If it's holding pressure, then it's sealed. I have tried this before, an peel away like magic it didn't.SpudBlaster15 wrote:If you cut large grooves into the PET stock, then applied epoxy, the joint would most likely hold pressure in the same manner a union does, but it certainly wouldn't seal.
Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 4:52 pm
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