Page 12 of 12

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:11 am
by jackssmirkingrevenge
evilvet wrote:A nice touch would be to rig up a turntable on a stepper motor so that you could increment the object in 1.8 degree snaps with the camera mounted on a tripod. That would give you 200 shots, nice and accurate.
That shouldn't be too hard to set up, heck you could even index it manually.

Interesting find, cheers!

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:39 am
by POLAND_SPUD
Hey Poland, you you want to post a link to the mesh you got back from ACAD ?
that one was pretty badly warped - but was quick because I knew I had pics of a lighter that I once took to generate a 360 panoramic view of the object (probably that uses a similar system)

here is something that took less than 2 minutes to take but I spent like 15 minutes waiting for it to process the pictures... I haven't corrected them in any way

LINK -> http://www.123dapp.com/3dp-Catch/step-motortest/815215

not bad at all given that lighting sucked and I should have taken a couple of low angle pics as well... plus it seems that a newspaper makes a great background for it - though I can tell that some of the textures (the shaft that doesn't exist ;-) ) are a direct result of a picture that was in the paper

EDIT
found a tutorial on this...

[youtube][/youtube]

it seems that a turntable with a step motor wouldn't help much - what is more important is lighting and lots of features/texture on the object and avoiding glossy surfaces - which basically means this might not be best suited to creating 3d models of metal valves, machined parts etc.

think that the problem I experience with the step motor and its shaft was precisely caused by this (and shitty lighting + shadows)


It's more for sculptures and objects with lots of intricate details - because let's be honest - most valves have datasheets with exact dimensions and drawings and most machined parts aren't really that complex but they require precision - it would probably take less time to model them from the scratch once you've got all the measurements


Anyway it's still pretty cool though

Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 3:07 am
by USGF
evilvet wrote:A nice touch would be to rig up a turntable on a stepper motor so that you could increment the object in 1.8 degree snaps with the camera mounted on a tripod. That would give you 200 shots, nice and accurate.

Hey Poland, you you want to post a link to the mesh you got back from ACAD ?

Thanks
Evil and Poland, That is way cool. I got the camera and the stepper motors. We have a Next Engine HD but it is hard to use. We gotta give this a try.

Edit, we tried to scan moped and chainsaw 2 stroke heads - to make water-cooled versions. What a pain with the Next Engine.

USGF

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:41 am
by evilvet
Evening all.

Q:
How do you align your mill/router consistently when you change tools, move parts and have a low tech environment.

A:
Use an enhanced Mark 1 Mod 0 eyeball with a bit of electronic assistance.

First of all, today was a good machinist day. I went to the local flea market and picked up a pair of calipers, a 6" engineers square and a set of feeler gauges for $20 total. I almost bought a X1 micro mill for $300 but remained reserved.

Jack, the gauges are Russian because the vendor told me the "CCCP" engraved on them meant they were from the old Soviet Union. Not quite sure about that but it made a nice story. The square is a beauty, an original mid-war Rabone from Brum as are the calipers.

He also put me on to a web site called CNC CAM http://www.c21systems.com/CNCCam/ which is the point of this post.

I strapped a webcam onto the mill with some cable ties and got the results below.

The video (to follow soon) should be self explanatory. Once I calibrate Mach3, I just need to configure a button on the screen using the free editor and allow for the offset of the camera.

This gives the concept
http://www.tinkeringtechie.com/projects ... aser-sight

Any time I want to align tooling to a spot, I eyeball it on the 46" screen at 200x magnification, press "ALIGN" and away I go.

As long as I remember to zero the "Z" axis first to avoid any parallax issues then all is good. It also means my 4th axis is not so urgent; if if create 3 or 4 alignment marks on the obverse side of my milling subject, I can flip it on the table and use the marks on the reverse to align and hence mill the reverse face.

Oh happy day. Very Cool.

Cheers.

First video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQO0qvFu ... e=youtu.be

And the other one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un6cTdrVcAE

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 7:03 am
by jackssmirkingrevenge
Pretty sweet! Also, we have the same SMS ringtone, confused me there for a second :)
evilvet wrote:Jack, the gauges are Russian because the vendor told me the "CCCP" engraved on them meant they were from the old Soviet Union. Not quite sure about that but it made a nice story.


Сою́з Сове́тских Социалисти́ческих Респу́блик, so yes, curious as to how they got to your part of the world though... Possibly during the Vietnam war when soviet supplies were flowing into the region?