SpudFiles

when you sharpen a knife the "curve" style, also known as convex grind. Conwex grind is faster to do, but you lost the ability to get the extreme sharpness. Its good when used in bowie style blade.

And the double edge, you know. First primary edge and then you make that small "cutting edge" , thats bad. Again, you lose the ability to extreme sharpness. So, i recommend scandigrind or flat grind every time, it takes more time but itll pay back.

But you dont need convex grind on a blade, that takes much stress. You can get better results whit scandi grind, but again, this has something to do with the blade material and heat treating prosess.

For example, we take 52100 ball bearing steel and normal low carbon steel. We laminate those "san mai" style, 52100 in the middle. When we do a differential heat treatment to it, and then tempering it to take maximum stress. There you have a blade, that flexes like a spring but still takes the extreme sharpness.

ah ok, but to be honest im not really sure about anything you just said, will have to come back and look up some of the things you said but right now im gonna go back to making my snake cage, but yea when i do figure out what you just said i will have to do that to them, or something lol, cheers

ThornsofTime wrote:Anywho, a few of my creations for your consideration.

I like the one full of rivets! Always loved rivets, nuts and bolts...
I never thought SteamPunk style was also popular in knives... any link to share for more?

jakethebeast wrote:made a video of me cutting paper

Impressive! Very!! I've never seen a blade cutting like that... except in movies A shame I don't have a workshop where I can set a furnace, I would love to learn tempering steel, and how make real size blades. But so far my tempering experiences were dipping hot steel of the proper red color into a can of grape seed oil

ilovefire wrote:thought i would post a couple of my knives i just made

I like the Bowie style of your knives. I'm sure Jack is right for the problems related to this blade shape (I say that just in case, as I didn't understand all either ) but still, it's a very nice work.

LeMaudit, or if anybody who wants to make a knife but cant make the blade, im happy to sell you some blades in good prize . Like a Spudbrother (OR sister) prize

EDIT: Aa you want me to tell simpler ehy i dont like bowie style blades? okey.

For a knife thats made for chopping wood, it needs to be heavy, specially front heavy. you see a bowie blade. The front is much lighter than the back. then take finnish seax style skramasax. The end is forged thicker and wider to be heavyer. This kind of knife has much much more potential when chopping.

Hope you guys understant now

Thanks for the offer!
You know, I might take this opportunity for an incoming project 8)

So many projects...

haha im waiting for reguests! Sadly right now i have only the ability to heat treat max 15cm blade, hope to get the coalforge running soon. Then its damascus time

Damascus, I have a nice one I can share

that looks.. cool. how many layers that one has?

Might as well chuck this hypothetical design here

49 layers. It is a Herbertz knife I bought in France a long while ago. Blade length 6 inches. Overall 10 1/2".

[edit] Oh! A balistic spud!

[edit] You know... using a quick connect as a base... and Jack razor sharp custom blade, and a machined handle... we could have a niceeee project

well i found this and its helped me undersand what you were saying a bit better

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/sho ... -Explained

the sheathed blade i think is more scandi and the folding blade is convex, as i said before iv still got a bit more work to do on them, will probably try get a nice scandi grind on both of them and see if i can manage to at least make them cut paper, thanks for the help

I started making a miniature ballistics knife before. About 4" overall, with a concealed schrader. It would be fireable by undoing a small threaded pin with a knob on the end which locked the knife/piston in place. Never got around to finishing it up and sealing the valve in but I don't think the bore size the piston had would have propelled the fairly heavy knife and piston assembly very quickly. Would definitely go full size if I were to do it again.

Oh and Jack, do you hold onto the schrader and pull the sleeve back? I think a trigger and perhaps a sear latched onto a groove in the knife assembly would work well and would give the possibility of a safety.

actually, iw made a ballistick knife, its almost finished. Its just a spring version. just need to build the lock



This one was made with very tight cutting angle to be strong. Actually, the blade is like 6mm thick. the construction is made from steel and aluminium for the handle.

49 layers

Well, i was meaning the traditional damascus, 10 000-30 000 layers

inonickname wrote:Oh and Jack, do you hold onto the schrader and pull the sleeve back? I think a trigger and perhaps a sear latched onto a groove in the knife assembly would work well and would give the possibility of a safety.

You can hold the handle and pull back on the schrader or if you're holding the handle and stab something...

Alternatively, you can shorten the sleeve to a collar and activate it with your thumb:

ilovefire wrote:well i found this and its helped me undersand what you were saying a bit better

Nice link, thanks for sharing.

you can shorten the sleeve to a collar and activate it with your thumb

Yes I immediately thought about that when I said using a quick connect. But the other way around, exactly as a quick connect collar work. Having the collar close to the blade that you can activate by pulling with thumb and index. Pushing would do nothing, which would make it safe for stabbing too.