Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 4:48 pm
Thank you dewey 
I'll show the results! Expect fat sparks, or a lot of smoke and burnt plastic
I'll show the results! Expect fat sparks, or a lot of smoke and burnt plastic
Page 17 of 101
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:02 pm
Im curious to see the results, im actually looking for small high-voltage ignition for hybrid, piezo is not giving enough, and i think Ultimatespudgun's ignitor is too big
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:28 pm
USG igniter is smaller than that stove igniter.jakethebeast wrote:Im curious to see the results, im actually looking for small high-voltage ignition for hybrid, piezo is not giving enough, and i think Ultimatespudgun's ignitor is too big
USG igniter is about 87 mm long x 30.5 mm wide.
The stove igniter is about 111 mm long x 26.5 mm wide.
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:30 pm
230VAC win
[youtube][/youtube]
Fat noisy sparks up to 5 centimeters
already had one trough my arm, pretty noticeable
[youtube][/youtube]
Fat noisy sparks up to 5 centimeters
already had one trough my arm, pretty noticeable
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:11 am
I wonder whyjakethebeast wrote:Im curious to see the results, im actually looking for small high-voltage ignition for hybrid
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:14 am
Youll see it quite soon
EDIT:JEIIIIII 400 posts
EDIT:JEIIIIII 400 posts
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:47 pm
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:50 pm
It seems to be 1/8" (not sure if NPT or BSP after JSR's experience with UXcell) so I'd say it's possible, but I'd be more comfortable with something at least 1/4" NPT.
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:30 pm
Thanks. Got the 1/2" NPT one instead.
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:56 pm
I've always been curious about that seller. Let us know how it turns out.
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:23 pm
After one solders a copper joint, how long should he wait until using the vessel? I'm assuming it's a rather quick process, but also wounding if there are benefits to giving it a few hours or something.
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:46 pm
Gun Freak wrote:After one solders a copper joint, how long should he wait until using the vessel? I'm assuming it's a rather quick process, but also wounding if there are benefits to giving it a few hours or something.
a copper joint after soldered it good to go, as soon as it cools,
no need to wait for hours or anything, its not like expoxy or glue
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:27 am
It should be just fine after it has cooled down.
I don't know the effects of heat on the structural strength of solder..
I don't know the effects of heat on the structural strength of solder..
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:27 pm
Ya know guys, I can't believe I'm saying this, but after quite a few hours spent scouring woodworking and machining forums, and various online catalogs, I think I'm going to buy a drill press from H***** F******.
But I want some second opinions before I do...
So far my reasoning is based on the options I have identified so far:
1. Get lucky and find a vintage american-made DP I can restore
2. Buy a quality import like Jet or Powermatic and drop about a thousand bucks
3. Buy a 'high-end' chinese HF piece o crap and hope it isn't a lemon
4. Buy an otherwise identical chinese piece of crap with a brand name for 30% more.
A note on number 4...
Apparently there are no American drill press manufacturers anymore, with the exception of Clausing. There may be a few more obscure ones that I didn't look into but I'll bet they're equally expensive.
When you're on the budget I am (<$300), there isn't much out there that's a sure thing. At first I was looking at that 34" radial press from grizzly, until I read the reviews people gave it on amazon. Sounds like more of a risk than I want to take.
The reviews for the HF press on some wood/metal forums seem to be roughly the same as on HF's review page, indicating that it might actually be decent. If anyone has ever used this or a similar model I'd like to hear what you think. This seems to have the power and speed control I'm after and also has a 5/8" chuck, which would be a small bonus.
I might give this question its own topic. Not sure if its necessary as of yet.
But I want some second opinions before I do...
So far my reasoning is based on the options I have identified so far:
1. Get lucky and find a vintage american-made DP I can restore
2. Buy a quality import like Jet or Powermatic and drop about a thousand bucks
3. Buy a 'high-end' chinese HF piece o crap and hope it isn't a lemon
4. Buy an otherwise identical chinese piece of crap with a brand name for 30% more.
A note on number 4...
Apparently there are no American drill press manufacturers anymore, with the exception of Clausing. There may be a few more obscure ones that I didn't look into but I'll bet they're equally expensive.
When you're on the budget I am (<$300), there isn't much out there that's a sure thing. At first I was looking at that 34" radial press from grizzly, until I read the reviews people gave it on amazon. Sounds like more of a risk than I want to take.
The reviews for the HF press on some wood/metal forums seem to be roughly the same as on HF's review page, indicating that it might actually be decent. If anyone has ever used this or a similar model I'd like to hear what you think. This seems to have the power and speed control I'm after and also has a 5/8" chuck, which would be a small bonus.
I might give this question its own topic. Not sure if its necessary as of yet.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:31 pm
I say go for it. As I recall, Tech got his press from HF and he even does some turning on it for QDVs. Also, I bet you can make good use of all the bells and whistles on that particular press.