Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 9:05 pm
I'd do the external thread in a lathe, the flats on the flange with a mill and the internal thread with a tap.Gun Freak wrote:If this was to be made, would a die be used, or a cutting tool and slow speed?
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The Offcial Machinist Thread: Revised 01/04/2014
Page 19 of 74
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 9:06 pm
Ok that's how I figured it'd be done.
Finally got access to one them there mini lathes.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:00 pm
Well over the course of a day - here's how it went from a seized up mini lathe without a motor or any tooling - to a fully functional mini lathe!
Last night - my friend and I started looking over the lathe and immediately found out it was seized and the threading gears' bushings were also sized. So we liberally applied silicone spray lube and slowly worked everything free - I took the whole threading assembly apart and cleaned every bushing and applied fresh grease... As seen here:
Now that we knew it could turn, we needed to figure out how to apply an external force (aka a motor)
So this morning bright and early we ventured out to this awesome machinery graveyard (which I can't believe I never knew about before...
) And we set out looking for a: 115V, 1/4 - 1/3HP, 1/2" flatted spindle. Well when your in a junk yard it can be hard to find anything, but muchhh to our luck I stumbled across this gem that was mounted to a very elaborate custom automation line machine...
(This is it mounted to our lathe)
So we take it off the machine, which probably wasn't allowed as it was in the complete machines section... but hey, we needed it! Paid $65 for it, found it still goes on eBay for around $150 and up! Baldor is a name I recognized, and was thrilled to find it! It also has a thermal reset switch, so it is protected from overheating which is awesome. It was only 1/4HP vs the 1901 Sears roebuck motor which had a claimed 1/3HP on it. Speed was the same though. We tested it at the yard and it started right up with lots of torque. I'm not an AC motor expert, but if they are anything like a car engine - I think this motor has much better torque vs HP lol.
So I get the motor home, and we have to cut the old motor bracket up and make a new one for this beauty. Here's the lathe with the old bracket:
So some plasma torching, grinding, aligning, clamping and finally welding later, and I have the new motor mounted to the lathe! I plug it in with it's existing cord just to test out the alignment and engagement and it works! Awesome!
So now I had to hook it up to a FWD/REV switch and on off - after figuring out the wiring diagram and laying out an appropriate circuit to do this, it's running, in both directions!
So at this point I'm very thrilled, but the ultimate test lies next - will it lathe?
YES!
And after remembering how to grind a HSS bit properly (it's been almost 4 years! ) I start to get used to manual feeds again. So I start working all the feeds, and getting an angle cut on it, and I finally have something that looks like it might have been made on a lathe!
Very happy right now! Hope everyone else enjoyed reading through! Sorry if it was too long, but I just thought I'd explain bringing this lathe back from the dead in a day! [/u]
Last night - my friend and I started looking over the lathe and immediately found out it was seized and the threading gears' bushings were also sized. So we liberally applied silicone spray lube and slowly worked everything free - I took the whole threading assembly apart and cleaned every bushing and applied fresh grease... As seen here:
Now that we knew it could turn, we needed to figure out how to apply an external force (aka a motor)
So this morning bright and early we ventured out to this awesome machinery graveyard (which I can't believe I never knew about before...
) And we set out looking for a: 115V, 1/4 - 1/3HP, 1/2" flatted spindle. Well when your in a junk yard it can be hard to find anything, but muchhh to our luck I stumbled across this gem that was mounted to a very elaborate custom automation line machine... (This is it mounted to our lathe)
So we take it off the machine, which probably wasn't allowed as it was in the complete machines section... but hey, we needed it! Paid $65 for it, found it still goes on eBay for around $150 and up! Baldor is a name I recognized, and was thrilled to find it! It also has a thermal reset switch, so it is protected from overheating which is awesome. It was only 1/4HP vs the 1901 Sears roebuck motor which had a claimed 1/3HP on it. Speed was the same though. We tested it at the yard and it started right up with lots of torque. I'm not an AC motor expert, but if they are anything like a car engine - I think this motor has much better torque vs HP lol.
So I get the motor home, and we have to cut the old motor bracket up and make a new one for this beauty. Here's the lathe with the old bracket:
So some plasma torching, grinding, aligning, clamping and finally welding later, and I have the new motor mounted to the lathe! I plug it in with it's existing cord just to test out the alignment and engagement and it works! Awesome!
So now I had to hook it up to a FWD/REV switch and on off - after figuring out the wiring diagram and laying out an appropriate circuit to do this, it's running, in both directions!
So at this point I'm very thrilled, but the ultimate test lies next - will it lathe?
YES!
And after remembering how to grind a HSS bit properly (it's been almost 4 years! ) I start to get used to manual feeds again. So I start working all the feeds, and getting an angle cut on it, and I finally have something that looks like it might have been made on a lathe!
Very happy right now! Hope everyone else enjoyed reading through! Sorry if it was too long, but I just thought I'd explain bringing this lathe back from the dead in a day!
[/u]Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:56 pm
Holy sh|t batman, that's cool! Good job, enjoyed the read 
Does it have the same diameter limitations as JSRs lathe? It'd be a shame if you can't easily machine any sabots large enough for your barrel.
Does it have the same diameter limitations as JSRs lathe? It'd be a shame if you can't easily machine any sabots large enough for your barrel.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 11:07 pm
Nope I have a piece of 1.75" material (the plastic for the sabot) chucked up right now. If i turn the chuck jaws around I can easily chuck up to 3" material. Thats all i need for now 8)
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 12:02 am
Were you able to get a 3 jaw chuck too? The 4 jaw chuck is great but it takes much longer to set up for round stock.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 12:13 am
lol this thing didn't come with any tooling, or a working motor and you want a 3 jaw chuck with that?
I wish it had Tech - I know the benefits of a 3 jaw chuck too well by now... oh well at least the 4 jaw chuck has forced me to make some nice tooling to assist the lathe.
This is kind of a "full circle" feeling for me though. My grandpop was a tool and die maker for Otis Elevator. He passed down his tooling and whatnot, but I've never actually had a lathe to use it - or any legit machine for that matter. Grinding down his HSS blanks that he left in his tool chest with us kind of makes me proud that I can carry on with some of his skills.
I wish it had Tech - I know the benefits of a 3 jaw chuck too well by now... oh well at least the 4 jaw chuck has forced me to make some nice tooling to assist the lathe.
This is kind of a "full circle" feeling for me though. My grandpop was a tool and die maker for Otis Elevator. He passed down his tooling and whatnot, but I've never actually had a lathe to use it - or any legit machine for that matter. Grinding down his HSS blanks that he left in his tool chest with us kind of makes me proud that I can carry on with some of his skills.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:04 am
Surely you can buy one that fits for a relatively low price, it will be worth the benefit.mobile chernobyl wrote:lol this thing didn't come with any tooling, or a working motor and you want a 3 jaw chuck with that?
Just wondering if anyone can make this part, it's a bit weird. Material has to be strong, brass might do it. But right now I'm wondering if anyone can even make it.
Shouldn't be that much of a chore with a thread cutting attachment on a medium sized lathe, but first I would suggest a new postman
As GF said, diagrams will helpwonder what the price qutoe would be for an aluminum barrel spacer for a 6mm barrel,deltrin piston and an aluminum back housing with a shrader valve inside and orings to be a serviceable 1/2 coax
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:41 am
Not all chuck jaws are reversible, you may need to invest in outside jaws.mobile chernobyl wrote:Nope I have a piece of 1.75" material (the plastic for the sabot) chucked up right now. If i turn the chuck jaws around I can easily chuck up to 3" material. Thats all i need for now 8)
Only if it's not self centering, otherwise just turn the chuck key.Technician1002 wrote:Were you able to get a 3 jaw chuck too? The 4 jaw chuck is great but it takes much longer to set up for round stock.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:48 am
Luckily these are!jrrdw wrote:Not all chuck jaws are reversible, you may need to invest in outside jaws.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:12 am
That thing is beautiful, gratz.
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:09 pm
More tooling for me! Dead centers just don't all ways do the job.
Dead centers just don't all ways do the job.Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:20 pm
What's the significance/gain of using a live center over a dead center?
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:26 pm
A live centre spins independently, so there isn't a fixed tool rubbing against your moving part.
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:35 pm
Smoother operation, no chatter on long skinny work pieces. Dead centers work but I don't recommend them for pro-longed use.Gun Freak wrote:What's the significance/gain of using a live center over a dead center?