SpudFiles

Ragnarok is correct. Sleeving the chamber will do nothing. Build it properly so it will not 'blow up' instead of preparing for if it does.

Here is the link to the test he mentioned. http://www.spudfiles.com/spudtech_archi ... php?t=7786

DYI wrote:Encasing the whole chamber in SCH 40 steel pipe could work too,

Why not just use the steel pipe then?

Why not just use the steel pipe then?

Exactly my point. The money and effort required to prevent a fragging PVC chamber from being dangerous is more than that required to simply build it right in the first place.

frankrede wrote:

*5*STAR*GENERAL* wrote:the best thing is to sleve the chamber but leave some pipe out to attatch to triggering mech. uese some type of teflaun or heavy cotton. first put a layer of tight fabric then a lose layer then antother tight layer on top then (this can get repettative) add another loses layer. the first 3 layers will slow a leak or solw down any frags then the top layer will finally stop the frags completley. have fun be safe and good luck.

Second dumbass false information post on my count?
anyone else keeping count?

Yeah just look at his post count

IS anyone else aware that PVC is now starting to not be pressure rated?

ShowNoMercy wrote:IS anyone else aware that PVC is now starting to not be pressure rated?

I find your statement bullshit...

say your pvc is rated for 200 psi. what if u cut the gun in half and glue it together with glue of about 170 psi? wouldnt t just snap instead of send shrapnel?

OR, you could just build it properly. For your own good, just prevent the chamber from failing in the first place, don't try to make it fail in a better manner. If a decent sized PVC chamber snaps in half at the middle at 150 psi, you risk permanent hearing damage if you're close to it.

rp181 wrote:say your pvc is rated for 200 psi. what if u cut the gun in half and glue it together with glue of about 170 psi? wouldnt t just snap instead of send shrapnel?

this idea is horrible, you are now in a category with 5 Star General

this idea is horrible, you are now in a category with 5 Star General

He may not be quite in that category yet, but he's well on his way. I believe rp181 was the one saying he was going to use glued together pop cans for an oxy/hydrogen mix.

Have you ever noticed that people declared forum idiot usually just disappear? I haven't seen any posts from 5star recently.

Well it's probably for the best, hopefully they won't be able to contaminate the resources here with their idiocracy

Hi,

Sorry to hear about the accident.

I'd say, don't use hard PVC at all. There are other stronger, safer and more modern plastics available. They are softer and not brittle; if a cannon made of these materials fails, you will probably have large, whole pieces flying about but no shards (sp?).

BUT they cannot be cemented as easily as PVC. They might be harder to work & cut, too. The plumbers (at least here in Europe) have special equipment for welding it.

It could be interesting to find out other methods to join these parts (I only know of expanding foam, which is excellent for combustions and maybe usable for pneumatics, and in general it's quite messy). Or, to find out a low-cost way of welding them.

Regards
Soren

This is a tad bit off topic but it does deal with exploding PVC, well not yet at least. I just bought a 5 foot section of SCH 40 NSF dwv rated to 330 psi. Now I got it cause I was in a rush and now I am second guessing myself. If it has a pressure rating does that cancel the DWV rating?

ShowNoMercy wrote:This is a tad bit off topic but it does deal with exploding PVC, well not yet at least. I just bought a 5 foot section of SCH 40 NSF dwv rated to 330 psi. Now I got it cause I was in a rush and now I am second guessing myself. If it has a pressure rating does that cancel the DWV rating?

Yup. The reason it's marked DWV is if it can handle 330 psi, it is certainly qualified for the gravity pressure of drainage systems.

So I can use it and not worry that my face might go boom?