SpudFiles

Posted: **Sat Mar 22, 2008 4:50 pm**

POLAND_SPUD wrote:lol I am going to say it again - you make awesome ammo... AFAIK you should avoid firing at right angles - but it also results in less penetration (or ricochets ) I always fire at things that are at least 10 m away - it might seem difficult but in fact it isn't and I try to avoid right angles - in this way even if something bounces of the target it doesn't come right at me

Yeah i try to avoid right angles too, im just worried what a large nail will do if it decides to bounce. And if i should fire from 10m away i will have to make a stabilized dart, which i will probably do

Thank you very much for the compliment on my ammo, but really, its not that hard. I have made some molds i use that im willing to bet that anyone with a drillpress can make, I can upload some fotos if someone is interested.

Posted: **Sat Mar 22, 2008 5:30 pm**

Very good! (and timely)

I am about finished my "slug" mold (need to make a sprue cutter), are you using pure lead, tire balance weights, or ?

So far its only been hot glue with ball bearings or fishing weights, I'll have to try the candle wax maybe. Do you find it leaves much wax in the bore? Are you pre-heating your mold?

Posted: **Sat Mar 22, 2008 7:06 pm**

i didn't read one of the comments (i would not start then i feel like read them all) but i look at your cannon and thinks "biltema" are you from norway?

Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2008 2:33 am**

Gippeto wrote:Very good! (and timely)

I am about finished my "slug" mold (need to make a sprue cutter), are you using pure lead, tire balance weights, or ?

So far its only been hot glue with ball bearings or fishing weights, I'll have to try the candle wax maybe. Do you find it leaves much wax in the bore? Are you pre-heating your mold?

For the lead slugs i normally use pure lead, as i find it to fit the barrel best when they have cooled down after casting.
For the candlewax, no, it doesnt leave a lot in the barrel, only a bit in the breach which is easily removed. And no, i dont preheat my mold, as it is made from plastic, but i think it would be a good thing to do

You should really try candlewax, it is so lightweight that you get a nice and balanced round that hits very accurately

spudfarm wrote:i didn't read one of the comments (i would not start then i feel like read them all) but i look at your cannon and thinks "biltema" are you from norway?

Actually im from Denmark, and i do shop in Biltema

but the only thing on this gun from Biltema is the copper pipe, pilot tee and the pressure gauge.

Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:58 am**

haha the strange thing is that it was just the pipes of those parts i don't saw was from biltema

biltema is a great shop if you want those kind of parts i even use them on my hybrid

you should have lived in norway since i never meet anybody in real life that has built one single gun

do not leave me alone on the forum with those psi guys xD

BTW i added you on my msn

Posted: **Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:44 am**

hyldgaard very nice gun, love your ammo might have to try some of these.
could you possibly post a picture of your piston valve, im yet to build one and am trying to get some ideas together on how i should go about it. i have an understanding of them but still i like to see actual built ones.

Posted: **Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:50 am**

Strake wrote:hyldgaard very nice gun, love your ammo might have to try some of these.
could you possibly post a picture of your piston valve, im yet to build one and am trying to get some ideas together on how i should go about it. i have an understanding of them but still i like to see actual built ones.

Im sorry but i dont have the opportunity to take a picture of the piston, as i dont have the cannon with me right now.
Basicly the piston consist of a piece of 18mm copper pipe, fillede with hot glue and a sealing face boltet to the front. If you have a basic idea of how piston valves work, i dont think further explanation is necessary

Posted: **Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:54 am**

thanks for that its about time i tried and made one when i get me some pipe i might have to build me a decent pneumatic.

Posted: **Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:00 am**

You wont be disappointed with a piston valve

By the way, if you like this gun, you should take a look at the upgraded version

Posted: **Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:12 am**

thats insane

im defiantly pulling my finger out and building something. within the next couple of months

Posted: **Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:32 pm**

hyldgaard wrote:Thanks for the GGDT'ing markfh11q quite what i expected, but you never know.

Took a picture of my ammo i use for accuracy, its 11mm ball bearings encased in candlewax, weighing 6grams total. (these doesnt look too good, but it was the last few i had)

I shot them at an old computer case, which is 1mm steel plate. Shot was fired from 15m.

Also i made a dart for some penetration power experiments (not very hard to see im new in this area ) but for now im a bit worried about ricochets, any advice on protection against this? I know that it will tumble in flight, but thats just a matter of being close enough when firing it :tard:

Please explain how you cast these rounds.

What was the 'mold'?

How did you center/place the bearings?

Did you use grease or other mold release?

Thanks,

BoyntonStu

Posted: **Sat Oct 10, 2009 3:18 am**

Awesome gun, Awesome POWER

How fast does it take to fill your gun with that stirrup pump??

Posted: **Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:14 pm**

for a barrel sealer should i have my barrel go into the tee or should i use a hose barb

Posted: **Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:42 pm**

now thats exactly what I'm going for for in my air gun build, simplicity in building and high power. question, could I get away with a shorter barrel & smaller chamber, scale it down to large pistol sizes and still have high muzzle velocities in .25cal or .38cal/? I'm aiming for 700+fps with .25cal muzzle loading bullets, and at least 500fps in .38cal. However I would love it if I could get a .38cal to shoot 900fps, as that is pretty much the same power as a .38cal/9mm glock.

Thanks for your post, I love this forum. I've only been a member for just today, so far, and I'm learning a ton already!

Nathan

Posted: **Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:27 am**

Nwest82 wrote:could I get away with a shorter barrel & smaller chamber, scale it down to large pistol sizes and still have high muzzle velocities in .25cal or .38cal/?

It depends how much pressure you are capable of generating. Without the benefit of a long barrel, high pressure is essential for good performance especially in smaller calibres, and you also get the disadvantage of a disproportionally loud shot (unless you like that sort of thing

)

SpudFiles

Just another copper gun

How do you cast these projectiles?