SpudFiles

jrrdw wrote:Well, this ball valve is intended to be used in the construction of a cannon.

Why not exhaust the QEV with a blow gun? Should have enough flow.

Yes, but this section is for constructiuon materials, not operation of a cannon

Anyway, you could always spring load the ball valve...

I would but I don't want a spring and string along side of the gun, it just seems kinda "naked" in a way and unprofessional to me. Don't know why, just does lol

99% of the time metal valves,threaded or soldered from the same manufacture share the same seals.
if you heat them up to soldering temperature's you wont ruin the seals ,you will however loosen them up and form the seals to the ball as opposed to wearing them in
a few minutes over a homes gas stove would make the your problem go away.
heating them is also the only way I know of taking them apart without damaging them

If you bought that ball valve at home depot, try looking for a different one in the air compressor/tool section. I have both ball valves (the one you have and this one: http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999a/1000 ... eviews.htm ) and the one in the air compressor section seems to open much more easily, looks better (IMO) and is much easier to modify (all you have to do is break off part of the handle). You might not be looking for a replacement, but if you are, that's the one to get.

boy your luckiy it wasnt a 2" ball valve cuz if it was you would have been screwed. i hate when valves do that but just try some white lithium grease NOT OIL. i learned that the hard way...but ya just use that grease shit and turn it back and forth for about 10 an it should be fine...if not then take the valve apart and grease it from there and everywhere...

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kablooie wrote:If you bought that ball valve at home depot, try looking for a different one in the air compressor/tool section. I have both ball valves (the one you have and this one: http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999a/1000 ... eviews.htm ) and the one in the air compressor section seems to open much more easily, looks better (IMO) and is much easier to modify (all you have to do is break off part of the handle). You might not be looking for a replacement, but if you are, that's the one to get.

Funnily enough that's the one I have 'stiff' problems with

Hmm... That kind of ruins my recomendation. Oh well, the two that I have work very well, but I guess the quality can't be predicted. I hope you guys find (and post) a solution, it sucks to have something not work like that.

cdheller wrote:99% of the time metal valves,threaded or soldered from the same manufacture share the same seals.
if you heat them up to soldering temperature's you wont ruin the seals ,you will however loosen them up and form the seals to the ball as opposed to wearing them in
a few minutes over a homes gas stove would make the your problem go away.
heating them is also the only way I know of taking them apart without damaging them

I noticed that regular solder ball valves seem to be looser yet hold the seal after they have been heated up so I was wondering about that. I just wanted somebody else to mention it backing my hypothesis up before I went and did it.

So about 30 minutes ago I just heated the sucker up with a propane torch for a few minutes and open/closed it a few times and presto! Now there's almost no resistance and it still holds the seal.

Well there you go MrCrowly, if you haven't already, you can do that and most likely it will loosen up your ball valve too

Thanks again cdheller!

Thanks for the tip, i'll give it ago on the weekend.