SpudFiles

wyz2285 wrote:400 psi, says in the video

Hi dude 1 quest
is you air cylinder a simple steel pipe? ( sorry for my pronunciation ) you speak spanish? thanks for your answer ( nice work )

Yes and no.
Message too short.

ok thanks one more ¡¡?
stainless steel pipe?
or simple steel?

Stainless steel.
Message too short.

thanks dude has made some gun with rifled barrel? know how make them?

If you want a rifled barrel, the easiest is to order a spare.

http://sermasports.com/PRODUCTOS/carabi ... s_gamo.htm

20-30 euros como mucho and a much better result than a home made part.

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:If you want a rifled barrel, the easiest is to order a spare.

http://sermasports.com/PRODUCTOS/carabi ... s_gamo.htm

20-30 euros como mucho and a much better result than a home made part.

gracias amigo el problema es que en el lugar donde vivo estas piezas no las encuentras eh optado por pedirlas via web pero los envios son carisimos incluso el ordenar un tanque de co2 de gotcha sale mas caro el envio que el mismo tanque ( y no te garantizan que te llegue tu compra) por eso tambien pregunte por el deposito de aire cualquier sugerencia es bienvenida

Translation for those who need it:

thanks friend the problem is that where I live in these parts eh not find them via web opted to order them but the shipments are expensive even order a co2 tank gotcha sending out more expensive than the same tank (and do not guarantee you get your purchase) so also ask for the air tank any suggestions are welcome

Edited by jrrdw. This is a English forum please post in English.

I would check these guys out anyway: http://www.sermasports.com/como_hacer_p ... spanol.htm

What ammunition did you have in mind? For diablo shaped pellets or spherical projectiles like BBs you don't really need rifling.

4.5mm pellets ammo eh and manufactured an air rifle using a fire extinguisher tank I have a method to make the barrel with a smooth twist the idea is to share practical knowledge of not posting the rifle that is not home to do Use precision tools but I can help with the guns

Chucking this here:

[youtube][/youtube]

The only reason I don't like traditional hammer valve is the hammer bouncing, witch is almost impossible to eliminate, however it's possible to reduce it to a level that's almost unnoticeable.

It is possible with a counterbalanced one..


When the hammer strikes the stem in my valve, the surface on the opposite side of the seal is suddenly exposed to pressure and is pushed back even faster ( open)

When the ammo clears the muzzle, the pressuredrop makes the valve close again.

A longer barrel or heavier projectile means more open time.
Dry fires are pretty lame on the other hand.

With the valvestem retracting apon being hit, the hammer doesn't bounce.

It is possible with a counterbalanced one..

When the hammer strikes the stem in my valve, the surface on the opposite side of the seal is suddenly exposed to pressure and is pushed back even faster ( open)

The first thing I'm gonna do when my equipment arrives its this then

If you do, thread the endcap on the counter-side.
I had to glue it in place, wich makes replacing an O-ring harder then it should be.

Use 2 or 3 O-rings/grooves to ensure an airtight and durable seal.
It's function depends on the low pressure zone.

you could make an elongated section of the endcap full size and O-ring it, then drill an outlet to ensure atmospheric pressure in front of the valvestem at all times.

Also, I suggest using the outer tube to house a linear hammer, wich is easier.

Low pressure side exposed to the atmosphere sounds tricky but I already thought a way to do so. But probably I'll end up use a solenoid hammer anyway.