SpudFiles

POLAND_SPUD wrote:who's your daddy?

Stanley, why?

ohh BTW I got this...
http://www.miflex.com.pl/pol/generatory/W09-2A.pdf

now how do I wire it ? do I get it right... I need one of the pins and ground?

My educated guess would be:

pin 1 is HV output
pin 2 is HV common

If using DC pin - is negative (AC neutral)
If using DC pin + is negative (AC hot)

I smell ozone
WIN!
so far I got 3 cm long sparks

[youtube][/youtube]
lol sorry I know I could have filmed in better light conditions etc. but I am a bit pressed with time ATM

ohh BTW...
'U' stands for current right ?

anyway here is the datasheet of it
http://www.miflex.com.pl/pol/generatory/W09-2A.pdf

Now I realise that I could have ordered this model
http://www.miflex.com.pl/pol/generatory/W09-6A.pdf
it's the same but has 6 outputs... that is 6 spark gaps (vs 2 in the one I got)

POLAND_SPUD wrote:I smell ozone

Geraniums?

*ahem*

WIN indeed! So, how long till your first hybrid

I would like you to try it on you tongue

U stands for current.

So, how long till your first hybrid

I should have some time on the weekend

POLAND_SPUD wrote:I should have some time on the weekend

Once you go hybrid, you never go back seriously, for powerful single shot launchers, I can't see the point of pneumatics anymore...

I would like you to try it on you tongue

Actually it does look cool (and stings a bit) when one of the pins discharges into my finger. But when the spark jumped through my finger it hurt a LOT (IDK if that's what a taser feels like but it was one of those AAAAAAA!!....... uhmm ok that was really dumb moments )

ohh and I've noticed that if there is something in the way of the pins so teh spark can't jump across from one pin to the other they (pins) discharge into air...
it looks a bit like this>>

U stands for current.

Are you sure about it? I found some info suggesting it is voltage

anyway I found that with one AA battery the generator produces about 1 spark every 12 seconds. I used three 9 V batteries in the video...

Varying the power supply changes the rate of sparks - you know why I think it's a cool feature, right ?


Today I decided that it is time to push it to its limits... and I think I fried it
lol it isn't surprising considering that I connected it to a 40V @ (0.8A) power supply
But hey it worked (nice thick continuous spark) for over a minute at 30 times rated power... I am not good at electronics and stuff like that but I guess that means these things are rather heavy duty

Anyway can someone tell me whether the version with 4 or 6 pins would be more powerfull than the one I got ??

I was wondering how you were getting 3cm sparks from something rated to put out 2x4mm sparks.

What voltage is it meant for anyway, I'm seeing 1.5V, 6V and 12V.

If it's anything like the ones I've fiddled with it charges a capacitor then dumps it through a coil by means of an avalanche diode or similar.

As for powerful... what do you want to do?

If you want to get the highest possible voltage out then chain the coils together and you'll get a higher voltage spark than each coil produces alone.

Or if you simply want lots of spark gaps then, again three coils are better than one.

If you want to get the highest possible voltage out then chain the coils together and you'll get a higher voltage spark than each coil produces alone

uhmm... how to do it?

This is you using a single coil:

[youtube][/youtube]

Note that each diagonal between the tabs is one coil.

Now this is linking two coils together so there is twice the voltage available:

[youtube][/youtube]

Essentially linking the positive and negative of the coil outputs together so that when they are used to make a spark, the voltage output of each coil is added together to make a higher voltage spark.

thx hotwired
that's exactly what I wanted to know

Hotwired wrote:Essentially linking the positive and negative of the coil outputs together so that when they are used to make a spark, the voltage output of each coil is added together to make a higher voltage spark.

Does this increase the wear on the unit though?

Anyway, all the talk of discarding sabots in the long range thread prompted me to try a saboted ball bearing, with the sabot made up of discs cut from meat tray foam as per the attached diagram. I didn't expect it to survive and wasn't disappointed, here it is firing at 10x:

[youtube][/youtube]

As you can see, most of the sabot comes out before the bearing

edit: forgot to attach the diagram

whats wrong with some compacted aluminium foil? relatively light and should take the pressure, thinking bout trying a saboted shot with my 8mm coax tomorrow

ilovefire wrote:whats wrong with some compacted aluminium foil?

I backed the foam up with part of a 12 bore wad, much better results

Here it is at 10x, went through three levels of PSU casing as well as the ciruit board of one of them:

[youtube][/youtube]

Upped it to 15x, went through a 1/8" alloy motor casing and two levels of PSU casing behind it:

[youtube][/youtube]

Damage pictures, on the 15x shot you can see that spalling from the brittle alloy casing actually caused significant dents on the PSU case behind it: