Hybrid ThorJack

Harnessing precision mixtures of pressurized flammable vapor. Not for the beginner.
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Petitlu
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For the barrel I put a simple retention of projectile.

I thought black spots had appeared on a shot!

Why you take the cone? seal? you should still put some Loctite ... and with a straight connector, it looks better ...

lol for schemas! great minds think alike!
:D
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Petitlu
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Thorjack new configuration:

Quick coupling of paint, removing the flexible and the valve was good for testing but bulky and difficult to put in the Thorjack:
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For the barrel, also changes, I removed the quick coupling for connecting to an easier to use when reloading and disc replacement rupture.De more of this system avoids the muzzleloader and prevents the projectile falls with a flat seal, the connection left screwed directly to the barrel.

Image

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And finally change the meter at the top the flexible that connects to the quick coupling of the chamber:

Image
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Ah, it looks much better! No more superglue :D

I'm worried though that the connection is unsafe, particularly the copper (at least it looks like copper) shoulder, I wouldn't be surprised if this sheared off at high mixes. This is under a lot of stress when firing and I don't think this part can take it.
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hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Petitlu
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Only the edges of the shoulder have a maximum of 40 bar and when firing, once the disk broke all the pressure will push the bullet without making significant efforts on the shoulder as the bullet is maintained but not very tight ...
Last, I have a doubt now .... :?

EDIT :I made this shoulder system to reload without removing the barrel.
the barrel linearly advance
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Petitlu wrote:Only the edges of the shoulder have a maximum of 40 bar and when firing, once the disk broke all the pressure will push the bullet without making significant efforts on the shoulder as the bullet is maintained but not very tight ...
Before the disk breaks, all the pressure will be on this shoulder. Ok, it's for a very short period of time, but that doesn't mean it can't fail.

I haven't sent your package yet, perhaps I can make you a stronger one out of brass?
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Petitlu
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it is a weak point is on ...

I thank you but does not manufacture the shoulder.
there are two shoulders, one has the right and one left, and nuts in the middle ...
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MrCrowley
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Why don't you get rid of the copper piece and just use a brass or galv union?
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Petitlu
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I just had an idea, to the shoulder with a brass nozzle ...

EDIT :oh yeah ... but you need a good surface for the seal and disc
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MrCrowley
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Petitlu wrote:EDIT :oh yeah ... but you need a good surface for the seal and disc
You can always modify the union to get a good surface for the seal. The modified union part below should be attached to the barrel so the disk has a greater surface area to be held against:
Image
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The red circle indicates the union part that you can modify by removing the taper with an angle grinder
The red circle indicates the union part that you can modify by removing the taper with an angle grinder
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Petitlu wrote:there are two shoulders, one has the right and one left, and nuts in the middle ...
Right, you would need a way to get the nuts on.

For what it's worth, this is the system I'm using at the moment, though I haven't exceeded 20x with this one.

Image

The barrel above was rather stupidly made with a PVC shoulder, which ripped off on firing at 15x. For the 75SD I'm using an acetal/delrin shoulder.
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hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Petitlu
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I just finished the brass nozzle with lime but I am not satisfied ...
Iwill go and see this morning if I find this type of coupling ...
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CpTn_lAw
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Okay , let me contribute :
I took advice from MrCrowley on the male part (well, i don't have an angle grinder so i hand-sawed the tapered part roughly and then ground it with the dremel.) BUT , I also did another thing.
I took a 16mm copper pipe, slide it through the female part (and greased it with silicon) and then I poured some epoxy until It was level. to get something like this :
Image

I added a fiber joint to the flat male* part to make better contact and resist the repeated heat exposure.






* JSR : This topic doesn't refer to actual flat males. This is strictly "plumbing" parts discussion. :D
"J'mets mes pieds où j'veux, et c'est souvent dans la gueule."
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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CpTn_lAw wrote:and then I poured some epoxy
FTW!

It's how every good story starts hehe

:D
This topic doesn't refer to actual flat males.


Thanks for clarifying, though even this could be horribly misinterpreted by those with sufficiently dirty minds:
This is strictly "plumbing" parts discussion.
:)
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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CpTn_lAw
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I was sure clarifying would do you no good, because your mind is sooooo dirty... it could actually put new metaphores in your mind...
Still, back on topic, this method has never failed on me.
"J'mets mes pieds où j'veux, et c'est souvent dans la gueule."
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Petitlu
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Thank you for joining!

I went to the store, I have not found it necessary fittings.
So I took the coupling of PER, reduced PER and I drilled, filed and soldered, and here is the result!

Image

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