SpudFiles

You should just swallow your pride and do what I suggested. At least temporarily, by having it thread to your favorite gun for now. Nice work. I like how the whole top portion and the piston head is virtually identical to the one I made although I'm sure you didn't actually read my how-to.
I think I managed to eliminate a bit more dead space by filing the nut (rounding it)holding the piston together so that it fit perfectly into the bushing at the bottom. I also added a beveled washer in the washers making up the piston head that followed the taper of the reducer I put on the bottom.

JB Weld a couple inches of brakeline into the hose barb and add more hose clamps.

I ruined the 0-100 psi guage on my hybrid and I'm lucky I didn't get plastic shards in my face.
If you look at the pictures, the clear plastic is facing up, which is where I usually am, ready to shoot. I left the ball valve open, shot, and heard a loud splitting-ish sound (very hard to describe), accompanied by the sound of the gun firing. I looked down, and the plastic face had split in half, both halves being bulged outwards. The tiny hole that allows air into the guage had been completely blasted out and was rolling around inside the guage. I junked it and slapped myself for wasting $12. Apparently a 6x/ 6atm mixture creates a bit more pressure than 100 psi.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Cras nec placerat erat. Vivamus dapibus egestas nunc, at eleifend neque. Suspendisse potenti. Sed dictum lacus eu nisl pretium vehicula. Ut faucibus hendrerit nisi. Integer ultricies orci eu ultrices malesuada. Fusce id mauris risus. Suspendisse finibus ligula et nisl rutrum efficitur. Vestibulum posuere erat pellentesque ornare venenatis. Integer commodo fermentum tortor in pharetra. Proin scelerisque consectetur posuere. Vestibulum molestie augue ac nibh feugiat scelerisque. Sed aliquet a nunc in mattis.

what about using a threaded hose for an air compressor and just use quick disconects instead of bike valves?

mike1010 wrote:what about using a threaded hose for an air compressor and just use quick disconects instead of bike valves?

Indeed, I think thats a great idea

My How- to is on one of those pump threads.
You will need a bleed if you go the compressor connections route. It would be too difficult to disconnect when it is pressurized.
I used the copper end cap with just rubber washers and a smaller spacer as the piston head. A 5/8 tap washer should work fine with a half inch as the one the o-ring seals against on the downstroke.
It could work using Epoxy to fill out the nut but it might suffer from the heat build up.

frankrede wrote:

mike1010 wrote:what about using a threaded hose for an air compressor and just use quick disconects instead of bike valves?

Indeed, I think thats a great idea

Oddly enough, that's exactly what Ragnarok's done, and it works great.

@Hawkeye: I don't know why people say they are hard to disconnect at high pressures. Hard to connect maybe, but it comes apart very easily.

Heat build-up is not a major concern in a copper pump - it's such a good thermal conductor that it will bleed heat off very quickly.

joannaardway wrote:<snip>@Hawkeye: I don't know why people say they are hard to disconnect at high pressures. Hard to connect maybe, but it comes apart very easily.
<snip>

Some hoses are hard to disconnect when they have high pressures in them due to the increase in friction. I believe some companies also build it into their hoses as a safety feature as the HP causes a whipping effect that can be potentially lethal. For those you push the sleeve up/in to vent the air and then the other way to remove it.

It really doesn't seem that way.

It's a series 21 connector (the cheapest available from Airlines - I suspect penny pinching), and even at over 300 psi, it uncouples easily, with no more than a firm crack of pressure as the valve inside reseals.

It doesn't seem to be at any chance of accidental disconnection, or whipping. But it is designed to work up to 500 psi, so it may have a clever design feature to solve these problems.

I thought we're just talking generally? I didn't see anyone specifically mentioning a quick release coupling.....

The whipping occurs on the side with the male coupler as you said the female side has a valve that reseats but the male one doesn't. This is the one I was referring to: http://www.airlines-pneumatics.co.uk/we ... de=S010162 where you vent it before disconnection.

On mine there are two bars that hold the two together. If you increase the pressure then surely the friction between the male coupler and the bars are increased? I know that mine is certainly more difficult to disconnect when it contains pressurised air - might just be the nature of the coupler though. Mine doesn't use a standard coupler (that said I'd imagine them to all operate the same way just with different plug/socket profiles) as I've tried to find an extension hose for it before.

Gepard wrote:I thought we're just talking generally? I didn't see anyone specifically mentioning a quick release coupling.....

We were talking fairly generally, I just mentioned the model I've been studying.

Ah, I was a bit confused about hose whip then - I somehow thought the danger was from the female end. Probably a misunderstanding because I forgot that the male end may not be attached to a tool/launcher, but could be on a hose.
If that's the danger, I think it's perfectly safe with launchers. Several pounds of launcher can't whip like a hose...

The Series 21 socket seems to have 5 microscopic ball bearings around the inside which pinches the plug, and which can move outwards when the sleeve is moved back. It's the same basic principle as you mentioned, but I guess the ball bearings are fairly friction free by nature.

Hi

I also had those bike pump hoses falling apart on me several times...

I would suggest a nice, long, relatively thin copper between the valve and the hose. Maybe running up the outside of the pump stem and down again, or simply a spiral around it, and attached with heat insulating plastic strips or clamps. Purpose: Radiator, simply. An intercooler.

Regards
Soren

Hey guys I know this is probably gonna make me sound dumb but how exactly do high pressure pumps work? Whats different from regular ones?

FeLeX wrote:Hey guys I know this is probably gonna make me sound dumb but how exactly do high pressure pumps work? Whats different from regular ones?

the small diameter pump heads dont provide enough surface area for too much pumping dificulty. they are basicaly just real skinny pumps.
(sorry for the post bombing guys lol)

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Cras nec placerat erat. Vivamus dapibus egestas nunc, at eleifend neque. Suspendisse potenti. Sed dictum lacus eu nisl pretium vehicula. Ut faucibus hendrerit nisi. Integer ultricies orci eu ultrices malesuada. Fusce id mauris risus. Suspendisse finibus ligula et nisl rutrum efficitur. Vestibulum posuere erat pellentesque ornare venenatis. Integer commodo fermentum tortor in pharetra. Proin scelerisque consectetur posuere. Vestibulum molestie augue ac nibh feugiat scelerisque. Sed aliquet a nunc in mattis.