Page 4 of 4
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 1:29 am
by ALIHISGREAT
congratulotions! (i would have still used the aluminium though

)
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:36 am
by VH_man
Heh you mentioned my wood piston!!!
if you can, put some o-rings on your wood piston. it works amazingly......
and i wish i had noticed this thread sooner..... because i had the same problems you did..... and fixed it with a custom milled washer (meaning dremeled) and the barrel flush sanding method.
Good luck destroying stuff at high pressure! its a "blast" (tee hee.... ill shut up now)
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:25 pm
by SpudUke5
So if i were to put o O-rings on it, how deep would i have to make the groove for the O-ring?
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:24 pm
by VH_man
i made mine so that the o-ring fit nicely... i really took no measurements
treat the wood like youd treat a hunk of PVC rod, at least thats what i did.
my "method" was to sand for a minute, then put the ring on and check to see if it fit. if not, sanding for another minute, untill it make a seal SO CLOSE that i didnt want to make it any smaller.
Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 4:46 pm
by john bunsenburner
if you use ply woad it could lak due to the gaps between the woad. paper is made from woad fibres and it leaks...ply would is also made from woad fibres...
Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:38 pm
by MrCrowley
john bunsenburner wrote:if you use ply woad it could lak due to the gaps between the woad. paper is made from woad fibres and it leaks...ply would is also made from woad fibres...
I've used ply-wood successfully before. I just sealed the wood with a varnish. You can also do the same with a wood wax which helps with lubrication also.
Regardless, it hardly matters if the wood does leak. As long as it keeps the sealing face in place, sealed against the barrel, it'll be fine.