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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:59 pm
by turner
Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:28 pm
by cannon monkey
mke sure the seat and piston ur seal face is on close to or compeletly flat
method to attach it to the piston... i have a wooden piston i just used a tiny nail and my seal face is 2-5 lays of inner tube from a bike wheel
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 7:29 pm
by jhalek90
Super glue?
You think im smart enough to try something that simple??
I tried it, it worked. Thank you
I feel like i have the intelligence level of a blueberry pop-tart.
Thanks again kind sir
Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:52 pm
by Fish8myb8
Sorry to bump an old topic, but every other question here was where to get that strange looking hose barb. I was at Lowes the other day, looking for their cheapest ball valve. After I was done, I had some time left so I decided to walk around. Someone called me, I stood at where I was when I got the call, and leaned against the wall. When I was done, I put my phone in my pocket and look up. I ended up int he irrigation aisle. And what did I have in front of me? that exact barb that you had! I took one over to the plumbing section, it so happened to he 3/4 male threads with no hex or lip on it, going right to a barb on the other end.
The barbed end fitting in this how-to that nobody seemed to find have been found in the irrigation section at Lowes. Hope that helps

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 10:17 pm
by Jon gucci
@ fish8myb8, ya but the threads on the irrigation barb hoses are different than on a regular ones...
Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 10:49 pm
by cannon monkey
the same size fitting as your tee just get a flare fitting does same thing

i modify my own hose barb it did not look good or safe i tried a flare fitting and it works great
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:09 am
by LovableAirGuns
hey is that the best way to make a cheap piston or is there other ways?
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:00 am
by Crna Legija
you could buy galvanized steel fittings instead of brass would save a bit, but the part that your piston slides in will have to be brass because it need to be smooth
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 2:15 pm
by Technician1002
Steel can be used, but it is a lot of work to make it smooth.

Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 5:38 am
by LovableAirGuns
oh yea for the sealing face how hard does the ruber have to be?
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 8:40 am
by Crna Legija
it depens how high pressure you wanna go. the higher ou go the harder the rubber
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:20 pm
by cannon monkey
yep depends on pressure i have used the inner tube rubber on my 1/4 inch piston valve 3 layers i believe and have taken it to 140- 200 psi ( do no try more than 150 with this rubber i just dont feel safe with it )
Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 4:45 am
by Crna Legija
i have rubber that i cut off from a old convor belt from work its really hard and has some type of thread reinforcing it and after 15-20 shot at 500psi it starts to leak
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:08 pm
by LovableAirGuns
hey i just made the same piston vale but i made my piston from hot glue but for some reason when i pull the trigger on the blow gun all of air releases from there and my piston doesent move iv tried with 3 types of springs and keeps doing the same thing what do u guys recon the problem is?
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:53 pm
by jackssmirkingrevenge
LovableAirGuns wrote:what do u guys reckon the problem is?
Have you tried without a spring?
What pressure are you using?
How tight is the piston fit?
What's the difference between piston and seat diameter?
Some photos of your setup will make it easier to diagnose the problem
