SpudFiles

Gippeto wrote:IMO...a DAMN fine job! 8)

Excellent stuff.

Couldn't agree more, you put CNC to shame!

If the parts are made from steel, how do you prevent corrosion?

Bluing works. Sure do like rust bluing. Anyone can do it...and at home with stuff they likely already have.

Gippeto wrote:Bluing works. Sure do like rust bluing. Anyone can do it...and at home with stuff they likely already have.

I knew that, but I'm sure BTB wants to keep the "shine"

Not sure yet..My neighbour advised to put a layer of tin on it...that or have it chromed...
He restores 100 year old motorcycles...and he was impressed..

I think the true metal color stays the best.
From what I learnt on TV chroming isn't easy... At least I won't have that condition to do it at home. But if you can do it I'm sure it will worth.

wyz2285 wrote:I knew that, but I'm sure BTB wants to keep the "shine"

... but given the "antique" feel, I think it would fit.

I never saw a blued antique gun... unless some blue process make the metal still looks like metal. By shine, I mean keep the metal color, some short of grey you know

This looks so bad to you? Rust blued. 8) No...not the same rifle.

Bluing works. Sure do like rust bluing. Anyone can do it...and at home with stuff they likely already have

Are we talking about an actual staining or preventive treatment?
Or do you mean just letting it rust is the treatment?

I'm not sure what to do...waybe I'll simply paint it to resemble brass...maybe it'll be flat black....maybe I'll just let it age..

anywayzzzz..

I drilled two small holes, or dimples if you will, in the back of the hammer and inserted ballbearings.
Runs smooth as a...as... eehm...asif it's on ballbearings...

I made a tumbler or sear to lock the hammer in cocked position...took me WAAAAAAAAY longer than I imagined...

Just about everything gets in the way in the tiny space but after a lot of tinkering I figured out what the shape should be to both work and fit in and around everything....Made 3 prototypes and I was up till 3 in the morning trying to figure it out...

So...trigger is roughly done...
Now it's time to start shaping some wood.

More than half the weight of the original block was removed to shape the front section.
And I haven't even finished the final fit onto the action.It'll move back into the steel as I cut out the exact shape needed.

I used a speeddrill-bit to dig out a channel for the barrel to fit into by overlapping the holes.
That took care of the bulk...
Then I took a piece of the original forkleg the barrel ( reservoir really) is made from and sharpened it.

I attached a bolt as a makeshift handle and voila!
A woodplane in the shape of the barrel.
Worked wonders if I do say so myself.
It enabled me to cut a long halfpipe-like channel from the wood.

Then I used a regular woodplane, a grinder with sanding discs and finally 120 grit sandpaper to form the front-stock.

After that I tried what I had been wanting to do for quite a while...although I had no idea how it would turn out: Staining the wood.

What did I use?
Liquid shoepolish ofcourse!!
And I oiled her up with some cutting oil.
Turned out way better than I had imagined!

Damn, that's looking awesome

I'll be visiting Den Bosch and Nijmegen in a while, if I'm correct that's not too far from where you live..

Would be great to see your pieces of art in real life

Labtecpower wrote:Nijmegen

Careful as you cross the bridge

Brian the brain wrote:Are we talking about an actual staining or preventive treatment?
Or do you mean just letting it rust is the treatment?

It's treatment: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_%28steel%29

Yup...treatment. Converts the surface of the steel to magnetite. Traditionally further treated with boiled linseed oil, but I've found heating and applying a hard wax followed by buffing the "ever loving sh1t" out of it produces an incredibly durable and rust resistant finish.

Forgot the rust blued .32pcp in a foam lined case after a shoot...when I discovered it weeks later, I found it quite literally covered in moisture, but not one speck of rust.

Another nice bonus is that the waxed and buffed finish doesn't show finger prints the way an oiled surface does.

For more info google slow rust bluing...or just ask. Forming rust in a controlled manner is a bit more tricky than one might expect, but very do-able.

Thanks for the tip Gippeto..Don't know where to get nitric acid though..
I made a shoulderstock...took me two nights...

Still rough, but I still stained it.
It'll help me to visualise what I need to do.
After final smothening and sanding I'll rub some more shoepolish on there..

I think I pretty much nailed the overall shape though.
It already looks like a real donderbus.

That's what they were called you know.Not what the English thought we called them.
Blunderbus?